Soups: Part 11


© Andrew A. Orr

Continuing on from last week’s article.

NATURALLY THICKENED SOUPS: POTAGES

The texture of the pureed potage is thick and slightly rough or coarse to the tongue, as compared with the clear soup and the cream soup. The potage may vary greatly in consistency depending on the intent of the cook, the taste of the diner, or the use to which it is put. A potage served as an appetizer may be no thicker than cold whipping cream, for example, but a meal-in-itself luncheon serving might be much thicker. Potages appeal to the hearty appetite and are likely to have more of a peasant quality than the consommes and creams, though vichyssoise does honor to the most elegant table.

Potages have a range of textures, from a smooth, glossy, and elegant puree to hearty and chunky soups in which the ingredients are left whole or only a portion of them is pureed.

7-5 POTATO-LEEK POTAGE

Major Flavors, body, texture = [2 lb peeled potatoes, medium dice; ½ lb leek {white and pale green only}, 1/8” slices; ½ lb onion small dice]

Body = [3/4 gal light stock; 1 pt cream, hot]

Flavor Builders in Sachet = [1/2 bay leaf, 1 clove, 4-5 peppercorns]

* Seasonings * Butter *

1. Melt *enough butter to cover the bottom of a stockpot to a depth of 1/8" and sweat onions and leek with sachet until onions are translucent.

2. Add stock and potatoes.

3. Simmer until potatoes are done. Remove sachet.

4. Puree ingredients and blend them back into the liquid. Strain if necessary.

5. Add cream. If too thick, adjust with stock or additional cream. If too thin, reduce by simmering.

6. Season *to taste.

7-5a VICHYSSOISE

To recipe 7-5 add:

8 oz minced fresh chives

1. Chill soup. Adjust seasoning when cold. 2. Serve in chilled cups. To each portion add a garniture of 1 Tbsp. Chives.

7-5b POTATO AND WATERCRESS SOUP

To recipe 7-5 add:

3 bunches watercress, concassé

Add watercress along with stock and potatoes in Step 2. ,Continuing on from last week’s article.

NATURALLY THICKENED SOUPS: POTAGES

The texture of the pureed potage is thick and slightly rough or coarse to the tongue, as compared with the clear soup and the cream soup. The potage may vary greatly in consistency depending on the intent of the cook, the taste of the diner, or the use to which it is put. A potage served as an appetizer may be no thicker than cold whipping cream, for example, but a meal-in-itself luncheon serving might be much thicker. Potages appeal to the hearty appetite and are likely to have more of a peasant quality than the consommes and creams, though vichyssoise does honor to the most elegant table.

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