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Cooking Flatfish© Annette Lucido Bignami
While it's claimed you can never go home again, two foods, squid and sand dabs recall growing up in Monterey, California, then a small fishing village better known for its sardine than its tourism. Then Cannery Row was a book, at a tourist area. Then you smelled fish "on the row," not fudge. But then, as now, the local's favorite fish was the sand dab. My father Neno used to bring home and cook what he called "bait" and we would eat it with gusto.
Unfortunately, the third leg of this gastronomic trip, the wonderful Monterey prawns that might run four or five to a pouare noten't available anywhere we shop. Even then these massive scampi were snapped up by local chefs at the top restaurants. My faNeno "Neno Lou" as he was called and still remembered by the old folks around the docks, was a famous cook who prepared wonderful food for those who know fish best like the Crab Fisherman's Society or the retired fisherman's gathering. Like most cooks of his generatiodid notdidn't use recipes. Dishes varied with whatever was ripe in the garden or fresh in the market. That's still a good approach, and the reason why I usually offer alternative herbs or fish species. You could do the same, as the key to proper fish cooking, aside from not smelling the fish cook, and not cooking the fish that smell, is fresh ingredients. It's rare that I attempt sand dabs away from the Monterey Peninsula where we eat them for lunch and dinner if possible. Locals, it should be noted, eat them "on the bone" -- the most delicious way. Tourists and sissies getdeboned deboned at the table by waiters who try not to sneer. The problem with sand dabs is that, like pompdo notthey don't ship well. Fortunately, there are a number of worthy substitutes. Small flounder, pompano and other types of white meat fish that run flat, rather than round, do the job. If your fish are very, very fressauté might sauté' them quickly in a little butter or broil them in the oven broiler. Tip: When we have lots of herbs we cover fish with fresh herbs and quickly grill them so the herbs burn. What a treat!
The copyright of the article Cooking Flatfish in Fishing is owned by Louis Bignami. Permission to republish Cooking Flatfish in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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