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Gulf Coast Warm Weather Seafood Dishes

© Annette Lucido-Bignami

SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES

States that touch the Gulf Coast offer their own special flavors and ingredients. Florida pompano and limes, Alabama fish fries and okra, Mississippi kingfish, Louisiana Creole and Cajun dishes and Texas barbecue all use shrimp, shellfish and fish to full advantage. So this issue offers a coastal feast keyed to the warmer months.

Fish or shellfish that aren't iced immediately do not make our table, and this is a health measure during the hot, humid months. Fresh herbs work better too. We grow as many of our own herbs as possible. When we buy herbs we either buy them from bulk containers at co-ops or country stores where we can sniff, finger and taste before we buy, or we make sure that bottled spices that are supposed to look green haven't turned brown.

You might also, as we often do with fresh spices, sprinkle the freshly chopped spices on the finished sauce - don't try this with bay leaves! Quality extends to other ingredients as well.

FLORIDA POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE

Tender pompano fresh caught from the gentle Gulf shore break and iced down immediately retain all their delicate flavor in this wonderful dish. It's traditionally made with parchment paper that's served in the bag and opened in a delicious burst of scent at the table. This is pretty fancy, but the ingredients can be prepared ahead and combined just before baking.

3 cups salted water, boiling 1 lime cut in slices 1 sprig of thyme, or (1/2 tsp. dry) 1 bay leaf 6 pompano filets (use small flounder, too) 3 tablespoons butter 1 minced mild onion like a Valdosta or 1015 1-1/2 cup fish stock - make ahead from scraps when you fillet - and/or white wine 1 cup cooked shrimp, in pieces 1/2 cup crab meat, cooked 12 sliced mushrooms fresh dill 1/4 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. white pepper Two egg yokes

Add lime slices bay leaf and thyme to boiling water, reduce heat and poach pompano for 10 to 15 minutes or until they flake. Note: an electric frying pan works well for this step.

Drain the cooked fillets and place them on a piece of parchment paper or foil at least three times bigger than the fish. Top with dill.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and brown slightly. Add the flour and brown slightly. Whisk in the fish stock until smooth. Add the shrimp, crab and mushrooms, remove from the heat and stir in the egg yolks.