Cooking with Smoked Striped Bass.

Stripers go further if you smoke them. You smoked steaks or fillets work well with cream cheese as snacks. The following Northern Italian favorite assembles and cooks in only the time it takes to cook pasta and the salad and desert can be made ahead. We find this rich, yet cooling, menu ideal during summers or mild fall weather.

SPINACH PASTA WITH SMOKED STRIPER AND CREAM SAUCE 2 cups heavy cream 3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon ground pepper 1 pound spinach pasta 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup flaked smoked striper 1/3 cup fresh dill, chopped

Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot; add the pasta and cook according to package directions or until al dente (done but slightly chewy).

While the pasta cooks, bring the cream and 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter to a simmer in a saucepan over low heat. Add salt, pepper and continue to cook until cream is reduced by about one third.

Then add Parmesan cheese, smoked striper and fresh dill and heat for 2 to 3 minutes over low heat.

Drain pasta, toss with remaining butter, stir in cream sauce and serve immediately. Serve additional Parmesan cheese.

BUTTER LETTUCE WITH WALNUT VINAIGRETTE

1 head butter leaf lettuce 2 tablespoons prepared Dijon-style mustard 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup walnut pieces 1 tablespoon parsley salt and pepper

Rinse and tear lettuce leaves into bite sizes then refrigerate. Combine the mustard and vinegar in a food processor or blender. Slowly add the oil and beat until thoroughly mixed. Then add walnuts and continue to beat until finely chopped. Refrigerate and serve over salad. Dressing may be made ahead of time.

SMOKED STRIPER CHEESE BALL 1 cup smoked striper 8-ounces cream cheese 2 teaspoons grated onion 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 4 tablespoons chopped parsley or walnuts

Skin, bone and flake striper. Soften cream cheese and add striper, onion, lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce. Blend well. Shape into ball or log; then roll in parsley and/or wal-nuts. Chill 3 to 4 hours. Serve with crackers as an appetizer.

NOTE: TO SMOKE STRIPERS:

Cut striper into pieces of uniform thickness that smoke evenly. Then soak in a brine made from one cup brown sugar and one cup non-iodized salt per gallon of water for three to hours.

Dry fish on racks until they form shiny pellicles or coatings or about one hour. Then rinse with water, pat dry with a paper towel and air dry on racks one to two hours until the surface of the fish forms a pellicle or slick. hard surface. While the fish dries, soak wood chips in water or for more flavor wine or beer. Set up smoker and coat racks with pan spray coat-ing to reduce sticking. Place stripers on racks so pieces don't touch; Add the chips and start the smoker. Smoking time depends on your smok-ables and your taste. One-inch thick fish slices take four to 6 hours. Temperatures vary with smoker type and size. See smoker instructions. You may need to add additional chips every two or three hours. When stripers are smoked to your taste remove them from racks and cool before refrigeration or freezing. Tightly wrapped fish keeps several weeks in the refrigerator and up to 6 months in the freezer.

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