Old-style models with flat bottoms work best in very shallow water; newer types add a bit of V at the bow. Given decent freeboard v-bow models work fine on large waters. If you easy Class one or Class two moving water, but find canoes "tipsy" get the longest, leanest johnboat you can find. Johnboats might be poled, or dragged, to spots on rivers power boaters can't reach as well. INFLATABLES Three classes of boats -- four if you include float tubes which overlap with the smallest dinghies -- confuse the choices here. Float tubes with a couple of flotation chambers, decent neoprene waders and fins run costs up to $300 or so. Float tubes are by far the easiest "budget boat" to use as they leave your hands free to fight fish. However, they have minimal range and only suit the most protected waters. So I prefer a Scanoe I carry on top of my 4wd at all times "just in case."
In a pinch a big old truck tube, crotch straps and a life vest can be the budget choice.
Do realize inflatables blow about when it's breezy, and, because of their tubes, tend to be rather wet. So use two small anchors and dress to stay dry. Watch out for moving water. Inflatable kayaks paddle well on easy rivers up to Class 2, but will not stay up with hard shell canoes or kayaks on flat water. Inflatable dinghies, and kayaks, in unskilled hands can be big problems on moving water too! Inflatable dinghies neither paddle nor row well, but can suit casual boaters when powered by small motors. Inflatable sportboats that offer higher speeds with larger, more expensive motors weight too much to tolerably tote. Except for models like the Sea Eagle, prices bust our "one grand" barrier. My first inflatable, a Sevylor kayak, remains a favorite option that works well for solo fishermen or, if the boat is at least 10 feet long, a couple for light use in protected water. I kept mine under the bed in a tiny apartment and ran it to the water on the back of a motorcy-cle. That's portable!
