EPICURE ON A ROLL


© Louis Bignami

Picnic baskets packed with fresh French bread, spicy sausages, aromatic cheeses and fruit not long from the tree once made angler's meals memorable. As did that rusted crab shack half-way to the beach where steamed clams came in huge galvanized buckets, or the cafe in a one gas station village that served spoon-thick chocolate malts with hamburgers so juicy that Mom had to remind Dad to ask for extra napkins. Today, few prepare their own boulevard baskets. Few leave the freeways to savor local specialties. Instead, we rely on golden arches and orange roofs for safe, if boring, instant meals that vary little across the country. Angler's deserve better. Here are some suggestions.

There are alternatives. Boulevard baskets filled with fresh, home-made or deli foods let you eat what you like where you like with less salt, sugar, fat and empty calories. Packing meals for the road isn't difficult. Finger foods should appeal when hot, warm or cold. Sandwiches delight when made with crisp French rolls or special breads and stuffed with succulent fillings such as this frittata, a traditional Italian dish you can also make with spinach or beet tops.

SWISS CHARD FRITTATA

4 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 1 bunch fresh Swiss chard 1/4 red pepper, chopped (optional) 2 eggs 3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning 1/8 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook Swiss chard in 1/2 cup boiling water over high heat for 5 minutes. Rinse with cold water, drain and squeeze out excess water. Coarsely chop.

In a skillet heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat; then add onion, garlic and red pepper and cook until tender. Add cooked Swiss chard and heat about 3 minutes, stir constantly.

In a medium bowl, beat eggs with cheese, Italian seasoning salt and pepper. Add Swiss chard mixture and stir well.

In non-stick skillet add 1 tablespoon oil, heat over medium heat. Add Swiss chard mixture to the skillet and form into a large pancake. Fry until brown, about 5 minutes, turn. (Place a flat plate inside the skillet, with your hand on the plate, flip the frittata, so the cooked side is up. Make sure not to spill oil on your hand). Add 1 tablespoons oil to the skillet. Slide the uncooked side of the frittata into the skillet. Cook about 5 minutes more or until golden brown.

Rather not cook? The gastronomic riches of the world lure at delis and markets where you can sample as you shop for Italian salami, German sausage, Greek olives, tub-fresh kosher dill pickles or French Brie and other cheese Clifton Fadiman called "Milk's leap towards immortality."

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