EASY, AFFORDABLE HAWAIIAN FISHINGthe beach at dusk near cliffs on other islands, and you may see one of Hawaii's oddest fishing systems. Anglers perched on rocky cliffs use rods the length of vaulting poles to sling heavy lead weights farther than most athletes toss a javelin, but there are no hooks on their lines. Wait a bit and you'll see the line reeled taut and the rod stuck into a rest sometimes drilled or cemented into the rocks. A long leader armed with a large hook and a big bait snaps on the line. Gravity, wind and waves move it down the line. It's slide-bait fishing Hawaiian-style! The results, on good nights that often come in full moon periods, can be more pounds of ulua than you can tote. Specimen ulua might top 150 pounds. Other big fish can clean even the massive trolling reels local anglers favor. Big fish gobble baits and head off as the sinker either pulls free of its coral or breaks off. With many fish it's not clear for a time who plays who. It's heavyweight action with heavyweight risk for the careless. Look at the ledges that sprout "forests" of fiberglass rods twice, or three times, as tall as the anglers, and you'll notice the images of O-Jizo-san, the Japanese protector of fishermen, travelers and children on the rocks. This isn't accidental. Given the risk of rogue waves, steep, sometimes slippery rocks and trails to the best ledges, and the very specialized tackle, this isn't a game for solo tourists. But if you want to try to catch a fish that weighs as much as you do from the shore, check the Yellow Pages for tackle shops, or ask about a local guide. Some guide for cash; others don't mind sharing their evening action for a case of beer or whatever. Hawaiian Holidays However, the best part of Hawaiian fishing isn't necessarily the varied fish. It's not the chance to fill in odd hours between visits to popular tourist attractions at or in the water. It's not even the lovely scenery and spectacular sunrises and sunsets. It's the varied people you meet on their treasured days off. Locals who may resent the rich haoles at Waikiki quickly cotton up to "just folk" who share their lunch, bait and beer. So, to see the real Hawaii and enjoy the old-time hospitality that has made Hawaii such a tourist attraction, just wet a line from the bank, settle back, and prepare to share some outrageous stories. In return,
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