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SPRING GEAR UP Part One RODS, REELS, WADERS, ETC.

© Louis Bignami

SPRING GEAR UP Part One RODS, REELS, WADERS, ETC.

Spring sees crappie and black bass action peaking around spawning beds and, most years, other freshwater species go on the feed as the water temperatures rise. In saltwater, a winter's storms have often changed the hot spots of bay and beach. So you might think it's time to out to the action. Unfortunately, spring also means runoff "too thick to drink and too thin to plow." Spring also finds us with tackle that, absent furfillment of the best fall intentions, needs a bit of loving care.

So it's time to move the cars out of the garage, set up the table tennis table and spread everything out. I should also note I have a small notebook attached to the front of my tackle cabinet, so I'll have some chores listed before the spring inspection.

Start with rods. Run a bit of panty hose through each guide. If the host catches you have a worn or cracked guide. Write to the rod manufacturer or check their web site to secure a perfectly matching guide. If you don't know how to wrap a rod seek advise at the local tackle store or send the rod back to the manufacturer. Finish rod inspection and setup with a look at reel seats. You did rinse them in freshwater and give metal parts a light spray of oil, yes? Cork grips deserve a scrub and if your grips are pitted you can repair them with some cork sawdust and waterproof glue. Rub the grips to fill the pits. Then give them a light sand with fine paper.

Reels probably need more care. I'm careful to release all drags after every trip so I don't get the deformed rod washers that cause the usual irregular drags. I do remove all lubricant - see the instructions, and repack reels with the proper oil or silicone lubricant. I check level winds and spinning reel bails for wear and replace parts when needed. Note: When I buy a new reel I dump the instruction sheet in to a big baggie that's stapled inside my tackle cabinet.

Lines require regular replacement at best, or at least reversal end for end at worst. In the last case use some sort of backing line over the top of the line to be reversed until the line height on the spool is correct. Then tie this to something, walk out the line, cut it off, and retie and wind off. The idea here is to equalize wear. Frankly, I don't do this except with double tapered fly lines as I buy my line in bulk spools. The test? Run line through your lips and if it feels rough cut off the rough section.