Patterns & Symbols in Kente & Korhogo Cloths
There are two principal differences between the two groups. One is the tweed effect that the Ewe achieve by plying together different colored threads in many of their warps. The other is the presence of more figurative symbols in the inlaid motifs woven by the Ewes as opposed to the always geometric ones found in the Ashanti weavings.
Among both groups of course there will be examples of higher quality cloth and lower quality, based on the quality of the yarns used and the weaver's craftmanship. Historically, the people in present day Ghana are known to have traded goods for foreign cloths, only to unravel them and use the threads for their own weavings. The difference in the quality of yarns used - their durability and colorfastness - persists to this day of course, so if you're shopping for Kente cloth look out for quality! You're not likely to find it at souvenir shops, and its not cheap...
We digress. The purpose here is to present a sampling of a few of the symbols and patterns found in Ewe Kente. We hope you enjoy these.
Kente motifs can be separated into three categories. There are geometric forms which often are seen in many different variations of a same theme - sometimes it seems as many as the weaving process permits! Then there are the symbols which are representational; of flaura, fauna and objects. These come in two flavors: the simpler, older shapes and the more recent, more realistic motifs.
The warp consists of roughly 240 threads (this varies somewhat). Each thread can be of a single color or, among the Ewe, 2 or 3 colors might be plied together. The colors of the warp generally dictate what patterns will be woven in and how the various strips will be combined to form the cloth.
The inlaid motifs of *Korhogo cloths* are always geometric. There are over 80 motifs woven by the Malinke weavers of the northern Ivory Coast. The motifs are framed in a rectangular pattern which is introduced at either end by a *longangun*, an arrow-like pattern which represents the talking drum. A single motif can be woven in many different patterns, and two motifs may be combined. Jim and Bobbo jnash1@concentric.net, lmeyer@ids2.idsonline.com Bio: a wonderful informative site on African cotton growing and kente cloth!!! http://members.aol.com/davilojo/p1.htm In addition to the information on Kente and its history, they have a marvelous children's book on cotton and page which
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