A HISTORY OF NAVAJO WEAVING
© Lee Anderson & Eric Anderson
Reprinted with permission of the Dine' People known as the Navaho
A HISTORY OF NAVAJO WEAVING by Lee Anderson & Eric Anderson
EARLY WEAVING or EARLY CLASSIC ( to 1804) The Navajo almost certainly began weaving shortly after his arrival in the 4 corners area in the homeland of the Anasazi. Undoubtedly the "belt loom" was the original loom adopted from their pueblo dwelling neighbors. The year 1650 is generally accepted as when the Navajo's shifted to the vertical or upright loom. One would surmise that the patterns of these early works included Spanish influence, pueblo influence and their own ideas of beauty. Following the pueblo revolt of 1680, the Spanish influence waned for a few years. Once they returned and the Navajo again had access, through trade and raiding, to the Spanish Churro sheep, the weaving, once again, blossomed with even more variation of design.
Navajo weaving now included designs from baskets, stepped triangles and diamonds, serrated patterns and colorful stripes. By the beginning of the 19th Century, Navajo weaving was in demand, mostly by other Indians, Navajo, as well as Utes and Cheyennes. Trade also existed with the Spanish in New Mexico and through them to Mexico and Europe. It is unfortunate that almost no examples of this period of weaving exist today.
Early Navajo weavers used wool, dyed with native, natural dyes, as well as a rewoven thread from Bayeta (a bright red wool of flannel consistency from England). They unraveled other blankets and clothing and by adding theses materials to their own home spun wool, a beautiful variety of colors and styles developed
The best known example, and what is reputed to be the earliest known Navajo weaving still in existence, is the "Massacre Cave Blanket" from Canyon de Chelly, recovered from the ruins of the massacre and dated at the turn of the 19th century. 1804 is the date frequently used. The blanket is all natural dyes, medium and dark brown and beige on white. It is all wool. The existence of this blanket is regarded as the end of the Early Weaving or Early Classic period and is often cited as the beginning example of the Classic Period.
CLASSIC PERIOD (1804 - 1880) Few examples of Navajo weaving exist between the 1804 - 1850 period, but the last 30 years of the period is well represented. Bayeta had been introduced earlier, the famous cochineal red dye from Mexico was popular and available but rarely used on Navajo homespun during this period as it was very expensive. The Navajo did use cochineal by unraveling other Mexican weavings. Saxony yarn, from Europe was popular with the Navajo in this period.
