DYEING: Chemical Dye Basics


© Lili Pintea-Reed

While dyeing with natural substances like roots, leaves and berries is fun and certainly my preferred method, chemical dyes do have their place. In truth natural dyeing is really a chemical process, you just control the extraction method. Chemical dyes, with the exception of the food-grade acid dyes like kool aide, flavoraide, or jello, are more toxic. Unlike the process of tea dyeing something in your soup pot, or koolaide dyeing some yarn -- you need to have separate dye pots and utensils for all chemical dyeing. To repeat one last time:

WARNING: DANGER just because chemical dyes look like koolaide or flavoraide -- THEY ARE NOT.

The basics of chemical dyeing are simple. You change the PH of the fiber being used to help bond the color to it, and then add the color solution. Acid dyes (lower PH) are used on protein fibers like wool, silk, and other animal based fibers to bond the dye stuff. Basic (higher PH) dyes are used on cellulose fibers like cotton, flax, hemp, and ramie. They can also be used on protein fibers but are harder on them.

The process is simple. For an acid dye you mordant (pre-treat) the fiber or cloth with an acid solution like vinegar or citric acid (the stuff you use in home canning) and then add the yarn to the dye bath. For basic (high PH) dyeing you mordant the fiber in a high PH solution like baking soda, washing soda, or commercial compounds that are similar, but higher PH available from the commmercial dye houses.

This dyeing should be done in non-reactive vessels like enamel ware, stainless steel, or plastic. Small lots can be dyed in old plastic bowls. You can pick this stuff at garage sales and keep it specifically for dyeing. In a pinch old plastic milk bottles will serve as small dye pots as these dyes are cold processed. I have some sitting under the sink right now.

The lack of need for heat should point out the direct chemical nature of the process. When you see people making tie dye shirts at summer festivals, they are using these chemical dyes with the mordant mixed right in.

If you want to experiment some of the bigger hobby suppliers are right on line. Here are a few for you. I've tried to get some trans USA also.

ProChem Dye Company: http://www.prochemical.com

Dharma Trading Company: http://www.dharmatrading.com

G and S Dye Company of Canada: http://www.gsdye.com

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