Dyeing: Safflower


© Lili Pintea-Reed
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Dyeing: Safflower by Lili Pintea-Reed

Safflower (carthamus tinctorius) is a common food and dye plant in many parts of the world. It bears yellow flowers which contain both yellow and red pigments within the blossoms. It has been used for centuries as a *true* saffron substitute and adulterant. Another name one sees it referred to is poor man's saffron. It is a useful plant with seeds which are used to produce safflower oil and meal for feeding livestock.

However, as the botanic name tinctorius indicates, it best known as a dye plant. To extract the yellow for coloring food saffron yellow the plant just needs to be steeped in a mildly acidic solution like a soup broth. To dye cloth or fiber yellow, the petals need to soaked in a mild vinegar solution. Bobbi McRae in COLORS FROM NATURE recommends a cup of vinegar to a gallon of water. Like madder, heat is the enemy of good color extraction in safflower, so just soak the petals over night in the vinegar water or make a sun tea of everything and let it sit for a few days in the sun.Strain out the petals working them a bit to extract the last of the yellow.

To obtain the red within the petals wash the last of the yellow out (after the vinegar extraction) with water agitating them a bit. Strain. Then place the washed petals in fresh water and add some ammonina, or washing soda to create a basic solution as opposed to an acidic one. Again like madder, a basic solution helps extract the red tones in the plant matter. Soak overnight or as a sun tea. If in a rush, you can heat the solution to 150 degrees F, but proceed very cautiously. Safflower seems to like heat even less than madder if you want to extract a nice red tone.

Protein fibers like silk and wool dye wonderful rich tones with safflower. Cotton and other cellulose (plant) fibers will dye a more pastel shade.

So give safflower a try and see what poor man's saffron can do for your dyer's palette.

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