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Page 2
Now, thread the other cord and run the needle the other way through the button shank. One cord going each way through the button shank, pull cords VERY tight, wrap between arm and body several times and tie a double knot. Cut excess cord ends.
This technique may take a little practice to get positioning and cord pulled tight enough. If the arms are too wiggly, or not in correct position, cut off and repeat the jointing until it suits you.
Other designers prefer similar, but slightly different button jointing methods. One of the other ways instructs doll makers to run the cord through the body back and forth, tying the cord together on the beginning side. Other patterns use buttons or beads on the exterior of the limb as a decorative method. The bead or button is visible and becomes a part of the completed doll using fabric covered shank buttons, or fabric covered beads. Beads and buttons may also be painted or left as is. Bead joints are less posable and more floppy similar to the machine or hand straight stitched joint mentioned above.
Legs
The attachment of the head will depend on the style of torso pattern. If there is a neck tab, the head can be string jointed to allow head movement. The head will have an opening in the back where it was stuffed. If the head is to be stable, push the neck tab firmly into the hole in the back of the head and ladder stitch together.
The copyright of the article Jointing and Assembling - Page 2 in Cloth Dolls is owned by . Permission to republish Jointing and Assembling - Page 2 in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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