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What the DMZ meant to me (part 2 of 3)

© Athan Rodostianos

From my vantage point, I gazed north a short distance beyond the border to the 'Potemkin' village of Kaesongdong, the site of the worlds biggest flagpole, from which hung the world's biggest flag. The dwarfed structures beneath it were nothing more than a front, a stage, a gathering of soulless shells of buildings, an artifact of the Communist propaganda machine.

Although a small hill on my left obscured its wealthy South Korean 'sister' village, Taesongdong, I had noticed it earlier in the tour, from the security of my bus seat.

The village was clearly branded by a 110-meter flagpole that was graced by a T'aeGuk-Ki (South Korean) flag half the size of its northern counterpart. It was impossible to miss. Significantly, this flagpole was the first of the two to be erected.

On this fine day, 160 meters above the ground the 31-meter long North Korean ensign wallowed in the wash of the light Siberian wind, struggling vainly to broadcast its message to the 'peace loving peoples of the world'.

According to 'Rodong Sinmun', the North Korea Workers' Party newspaper, the flag serves to remind us of "the independent dignity of Kim Il Sung's nation, which gives high pride and self confidence to the Korean people and arouses great envy and admiration among the world people".

It actually reminded me of Vatcher's account of the first armistice meeting. He wrote, "during the recess the Communists placed the flag of North Korea on the conference table close to the United Nations flag, which had been placed on the table by the UNC prior to the opening - it being assumed that the Communists would do likewise. The North Korean flag was several inches taller than the UNC flag, which was supposed to symbolize defeat."

If it weren't for the somberness of my 31 fellow tour members, I would have let out a snigger or two at this point. The phallic analogy was just too real to ignore.

It seemed ridiculous to respond in that way, yet that sweeping emotional transition was what it evoked. I welcomed it and turned my attention to the spectacle in front of me.

Perched on the hills just outside the northern boundary of the DMZ the three Hollywood style propaganda signs stood proudly. Unlike the monster banner, which because of its sheer mass was a fair weather flyer, they remained immutable, oblivious to the elements.

According to the tour guide, the sign closest to Kaesongdong translated to "Follow the light of the leading star", in reference to the North Korean President, the late Kim Il Sung.

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