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Shopping in Korea: Insa-dong a cultural nexus

© Athan Rodostianos

Insa-dong, in the heart of Seoul, is one of Seoul's lasting traditions. Even though the area has experienced a rapid modernization, characterized by the bevy of contemporary art galleries that have sprung up, it still continues to be the center for tourists seeking authentic and reproduction Korean cultural artifacts.

Insa-dong, (or Mary's Alley as it is sometimes called) is defined by a narrow street running between the Jongkak and Jongo-sam-ga subway stops. While most of the action is to be found along the street, there are numerous alleyways that branch off the main thoroughfare and lead to teahouses, restaurants and art galleries. The area is home to over 300 shops, exhibition halls, galleries, tea rooms, restaurants, antique fine art shops, craft shops, pottery shops and souvenir haunts. In these stores, you can find items ranging from the truly collectible through to reproduction souvenirs and, unfortunately, tacky baubles.

The rise of Insa-dong began following the Japanese occupation of 1910 when some antique stores opened in the alley. Over the next 50 years these stores were augmented by the establishment of rare book stores, painting and calligraphy stores, and in the 1970's, significant art galleries. More recently these emporiums have been supplemented by stores that cater to a less refined taste, and a less impressive bank account. The area now carries an impressive array of goods, and is particularly noted for its pottery which caters to everyone's budget- everyday earthenware such as tea sets to astronomically priced ($US100000+) antiques.

The hanbok (traditional Korean male and female dress) is also well represented in this district. This costume which is composed of a ch'ima (a skirt) and jukori (a blouse). is complemented by a range of bags and shoes made of the same fabric. Additionally other traditional items such as mulberry paper and p'ojang (wrapping cloth) can also be unearthed

More mundane souvenirs that can be found include key chains, Korean masks, fridge magnets, postcards, jewelry of all sorts, wedding ducks - you name it is there. The art gallery scene is also well represented and again prices can vary greatly. Typically you will get what you pay for, however, a simple relatively cheap (less than $US100 framed) authentic oriental painting can still prove to be a highlight 'back home'.

Unfortunately the rise of contemporary art and the ever-growing presence of non-reproduction wares on the street has been a concern for those who understand the cultural significance of this microcosm.