Just beyond the port city of Inch'on
For anyone relocating to the concrete jungle of Seoul, it's only a matter of time before the desire to seek out both the sight and smell of the sea becomes irresistible.
The closest sea access from Seoul is at Inch'on at the western terminus of #1 subway line.
Although the mention of Inch'on as a getaway destination may raise a few eyebrows, the dusty port city is merely the gateway for any number of trips into the simply beautiful islands beyond. The most accessible excursion begins by exiting left from the station and boarding a bus to Wolmido, barely 5 minutes away.
Alight from the bus at the gaudy yet instantly alluring amusement park, which even in the morning has enthusiasts shrieking in confused joy on the Pirate Ship.
From there, it's only a 50-meter stroll to the promenade and the sea where huge red and white ferries of distinctly different design, glide in and out of the wharf.
Originally an island, Wolmido was connected to the mainland through a reclamation and development project. Now its waterfront features a broad and extensive paved area, sprinkled with occasional sculptures, leafy trees and some innovative seating in the form of elongated chrome 's' shapes.
Splashes of color from potted geraniums and palms clustered around the doorways of the cafes and restaurants enhance the cosmopolitan feel. Nearby, the Tourist Information Office carries an extensive range of resources to aid the foreign tourist including a 112-page information booklet written in English.
Past the busy synchronized maneuverings of the ferries the seascape is punctuated by the blurry forms of industrial vessels, and the outline of Yongjong Island (Yongjongdo) is prominent a short distance across the water.
The fare to the island, which is the way to the beaches of Yongjudo is 2000 won return while a leisurely cruise around the bay costs 7000 won. There is no reserved seating on the boats bound for Yongjongdo.
If Hitchcock's film 'Birds' was an uneasy experience, it would be wise to avoid close contact with groups of squid chewing, fragment tossing tourists as they lure a frantic wake of crazed and leering gulls. Sitting at a safe distance however, out in the open, enjoying the cool salty air, it is a smooth and brief glide across the water.
At the nondescript arrival spot a left turn and saunter through the fish market leads to a bus headed for Urwangri Beach, about 30 minutes away.
At first the road weaves through a semi tropical, rural setting but minutes later the bus enters the main causeway, running straight and purposeful along the sea line. Tidal mud flats to the left seem to extend forever, and small, arced figures digging for crabs litter an otherwise vacuous landscape.
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