Russian Cuisine


© James Dixon

To many, Russian food conjures up images of cabbage, beetroot (beets), black bread, and empty supermarket shelves, but those who have actually visited a home in Russia will tell stories of great feasts placed before them. Russian cuisine has evolved over many centuries. Yeast was first used in the eighth century having been acquired from the nomadic tribes of Scythia, a region north of the Black Sea. Trade with the Roman Empire brought spices, rice and buckwheat. From Bulgaria came peppers, aubergines, and courgettes (zucchini). Germany and Holland introduced open flame cooking, replacing the traditional pech, a large stove used for baking, cooking, heating and drying clothes, even sleeping for those privileged enough.

The influence of the French during the nineteenth century was only felt by professional chefs who began to use the type of sauces typical of French cooking. After the Napoleonic War of 1812 the Master Chef Carême joined the court of Tsar Alexander I, who said: 'Carême has taught us how to eat; we did not know before.'

Later, it was the turn of the Russians to teach the French. Previously, dinner was served with all the dishes on the table at once, which although attractive meant that the food was often cold or spoilt before it was eaten. However, dining à la Russe became not only the style of serving adopted by the French, but also by the English. Whereby, in contrast to the French manner, the meal is split into courses and each is cleared before the next is served.

Due to the vast nature of the Soviet Union, Russian cuisine calls upon the bounty of fish available in its lakes, rivers and seas, which can be either salted, marinated or smoked. Russians have always grown barley, oats and millet, explaining why pirogi and pirozhki, (large and individual pies respectively, which can take a variety of meat and vegetable fillings), koulebiaca (the Tsar of pies, a multiple layered fresh salmon pie), and pancakes such as blini (traditionally served during the festival week of Maslenitsa before the Lenten fast), oladi (small pancakes) and blinchiki (the unleavened version of blini), play such an important part of Russuan cuisine.

In addition to cereals, the ancient ancestors of modern Russians grew vegetables such as cabbage and turnips. Sauerkraut was popular because it could be stored for at least a year, bridging the gap between harvests. Until the eighteenth century, turnips were used in the way that potatoes are today. Horseradish has been used in Russia for as long as cabbage and turnip, as has cucumber.

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