Risotto

Risotto is an Italian short-grain rice dish. The cooked grains of rice are discrete, but bound by a sauce - that appears during cooking - due to the starch molecules (amylopectin) that are abundant in the rice.

Of the many variations of risotto, the golden, saffron scented "risotto alla milanese" is probably the most famous. In 1574, one of the master glassmakers working on the Duomo, Milan's cathedral, was to marry Valerio Di Fiandra, the daughter of another glassmaker. The groom's nickname was Zafferano, meaning saffron, because of his love of the golden hue the spice gave to the glass pastes he used in his work.

Unfortunately for Zafferano, another man was also in love with Valerio, and in an attempt to ruin the risotto prepared for their wedding feast he threw in a handful of saffron. However, everyone fell in love with the risotto and it became a Milanese tradition.

There are several rules to making risotto, the first is that it must be made with Arborio rice (a short grain japonica rice) which is grown in northern Italy. Other varieties of short grain rice can be substituted, but I wouldn't recommend it. Under no circumstance use a medium or long grain rice, it will not work.

Making Risotto starts with the seasoning. Traditionally onion is cooked in butter (northern Italy uses butter rather than olive oil) until it softens, but does not colour. The rice is then stirred in until it is translucent and covered in fat, to seal in the starch. Some people believe this is unnecessary, but the traditionalists insist upon it.

Once the rice has been sealed, the stock (and, or wine) is added intermittently, about half a cup at a time. The liquid should be allowed to simmer, but never let it boil vigorously. As the liquid is added, the risotto should be stirred constantly for the twenty to thirty minutes that it takes to cook. Stirring prevents burning and liberates the amylapectin molecules that float into the liquid and swell to make the sauce. Personally, I don't think constant stirring is necessary, just enough to prevent the rice sticking to the bottom of the pan.

Risotto must be served immediately on warm plates, but do not reheat. Garnish with shavings of Parmigiano, but not if making a seafood risotto - Italians never serve Parmigiano with seafood - and perhaps some chopped parsley or basil.

When making risotto, Italians tend to choose fresh, regional produce. Vegetables or meat can be added after cooking the onion or the rice. Vegetables, fully cooked and cured meats, and sausages should be added towards the beginning. Add seafood at the end with just enough time to cook through.

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