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Tender Spots


© Jane Hollis

Judging whether a plant is hardy enough to survive in your garden is a tricky business. Of course, hardiness zones can act as a rough guide, but often there maybe many individual micro-climates contained within one garden. You can often find spots where you can grow plants which normally are too tender for your locality.

For example, in my garden half-hardy plants (that is those hardy down to 0 degrees Celsius) should not survive over winter. However, in a sheltered nook between the fence and the greenhouse, close to our cottage, petunias, Helichrysum petiolare and Argyranthemum frutescens all survived the winter, whilst those further down the garden perished. Similarly, the climber Solanum jasminoides 'Album' flourishes on a fence near the housewall, although it does lose its leaves during the coldest months.

Sometimes you can't quite predict which are the most sheltered spots. On a west facing wall in my garden, the passion flower (Passiflora caerulea) loses its leaves during the winter, whilst on the fence opposite it retains its foliage.

Many gardens contain frost pockets, so it is wise to locate these areas and only use the most hardy plants there. Frost tends to roll down hill, and if it is stopped by a barrier, then a frost pocket results. An example would be if a garden sloped downhill to a brick wall - it is likely that the area in front of the wall would be a frost pocket, spelling death to tender plants.

Often people ask whether it is better to grow tender plants in pots - the answer is "it depends"! Growing in pots does give you the chance to move vulnerable pots into a greenhouse or under cover when severe weather strikes. Container growing is also useful for those plants that are susceptible to wet conditions, as drainage can be better in pots. On the other hand, the plant roots are more likely to be frozen solid in pots, than if planted in the ground.

If you choose to grow your tender plants in the ground, then there are ways to protect them. For a start, don't chop them back or prune them until the spring, as the old growth helps to protect against cold damage. A mulch around the base of susceptible plants will help protect the roots, as will a covering of horticultural fleece. Finally, never be too quick to discard a seemingly dead plant in the spring - the top growth may be dead, but often the plant may rejuvenate from the roots.

       

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

7.   Aug 7, 2000 11:22 PM
Interesting that you should say that Alchemilla (lady's mantle) selfseeds more in one garden than another. In my last garden (quite shady, clay loam soil) it didn't spread at all, whereas here (sunny ...

-- posted by JaneHollis


6.   Aug 2, 2000 5:12 PM
and Ladies mantle.

I have been virtually off air for nearly 3 weeks, Jane, but I am nearly back to normal.

I am sure that if you scatter the seed in situ, when fresh, it will soon be the bane of ...


-- posted by Gay_Klok


5.   Aug 2, 2000 3:16 AM
Hi Holly,
Sorry to get back to you so late on your query - been having a few problems with my computer. I have grown Alchemilla mollis from bought seed myself, but I must confess that only 3 actuall ...

-- posted by JaneHollis


4.   Jul 15, 2000 9:19 PM
You are so right! I planted Phyllostachys nigra years ago - it's supposed to be more than tender here - but it keeps on going. I am in zone 6, but have often had luck with plants that are allegedly te ...

-- posted by CarolWallace


3.   Jul 15, 2000 9:03 PM
Hi Jane,

I have just discovered your lovely site and informative articles. The www is the best thing for gardeners since fertilizer!

Would you mind telling me how you start alchemilla mollis fr ...


-- posted by HollyT





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