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Hypertufa Containers-Part I: Create Your Own Container

© Diana Pederson

Many garden centers carry hypertufa containers at rather steep prices. Most are in the form of troughs but others are shaped similar to traditional flower pots. If money is no object, then maybe you don't object to paying $20 for a dishpan size container or up to $150 or more for a planter or trough. However, if your garden budget is stretched to the limit every year like mine is, then maybe you would like to make several troughs of your own for the price of a single medium-sized purchased one.

Hypertufa originated in England as a replacement for the rapidly disappearing livestock watering troughs. Traditionally they are used for miniature rock gardens or alpine gardens. I've adapted one to be used as a miniature water garden.

You don't need a lot of skill but you do need patience. Follow the steps below to create your own individualized masterpiece.

First, decide on the size and shape of your container. You may use plastic containers in all sizes and shapes, cardboard boxes, wooden frames, or even wet sand to create your mold. Cover the mold completely with a large garbage bag--eliminate as many wrinkles as possible.

Second, gather your supplies:

1. Sphaghum moss--may be shredded or long-fibered depending on your preference.

2. Perlite or vermiculite -- again a matter of personal choice.

3. Portland cement -- the kind you just add water to.

4. Fibermesh from a cement company (shredded fiberglass). This is the most expensive ingredient needed.

5. Optional: concrete coloring (comes in a powder form at local building stores).

6. A mixing container -- size will depend on the amount of hypertufa you need to mix.

Third, prepare a work location where your new mold can dry for several weeks.

RECIPE:

Recipes vary widely according to the source. I've experimented and the one that works best for me is:

1 part sphaghum moss (packed down if long-fibered) 1 part vermiculite or perlite 2 parts portland cement 1 handful of fibermesh (more of less depending on the size of the container you are working with). It's impossible for me to give you exact amounts for this ingredient.

Enough water to mix the ingredients together into a stiff mud pie! It should hold its shape without pooling water on the surface.

Start patting the mixture onto your mold. Sometimes I do the inside of the plastic wrapped mold--other times I do the outside. It all depends on the final depth and size I desire. Make the bottom of the mold about 2" thick and the sides at least 1" thick (although I prefer 1 1/2-2"). Use pencils or dowels to create several drainage holes in the bottom. Leave these in place while the mold begins drying and remove them only when the mold is partially dry. Make sure the bottom of the mold is perfectly level or the final product will rock slightly.

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