Autumn is in full swing and along with the harvesting of grapes and the changing leaves comes one of nature's greatest treasures: the truffle. A final gift before the hardships of winter, they are a delicacy that take their place at the top of the gourmet food rankings. They are the "piece de resistance" of the fungus family. They grow symbiotically with poplars, willows, littleleaf lindens, hazel bushes, oaks, and hornbeams; in woodland areas approximately one thousand feet above sea level. The late summer rains encourage their growth. They grow just a few inches below the ground and are globular in shape. Some can grow as large as one foot in diameter and represent a fortune to the lucky truffle hunter who finds them. Truffle hunters use both pigs and dogs, whose superior sense of smell is able to detect these fungal gems beneath the forest floor. Each time one is found the animal is rewarded by a bit of the truffle, which understandably provokes great joy from the beast.
Although truffles have been a delicacy enjoyed by man (and beast as well) since the beginning of recorded history there is still much about them that remains a mystery. Countless attempts have been made to devise a method to cultivate them, but they have not revealed their secrets to hopeful farmers. There are two principal types, the white truffle and the black truffle. The white truffle, found exclusively in Italy, is best eaten raw; shaved over salads and other foods. The black truffle has much wider culinary possibilities. Like many of the finest delicacies truffles are surprisingly easy to prepare. Because they are so exquisite, simple recipes that do not compete with their delicate flavors are best. It is rather like hanging a Monet painting on a wall of it's own, not cluttered with many inferior works beside it. Remember, the truffle must be the star.
Truffles can be purchased fresh, in season, or canned. Since most of us will never get to buy fresh truffles I will give instructions on how to deal with the canned variety.
Veal Cutlets with Black Truffles
Veal Cutlets (chicken can be substituted) pounded so that their thickness is uniform throughout.
A Can of Black Truffles (whatever amount you can afford, within reason, but a little goes a long way.
Madeira Wine (approx. one half cup) Butter (3 to 4 tablespoons)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Lemon juice (approximately one lemon)
salt & pepper (to taste)
Open the can of truffles and save the liquid in the can. Chop them into small pieces. Melt a tablespoon
