The Khmu Rok People of Laos


© John Walsh

The Khmu Rok people live in northern Laos, mostly in the Houn and Pakbeng districts of Oudomxay province. There are more than 50,000 Khmu Rok people and they are part of the Khmu family of peoples that represent the largest group of Mon-Khmer people in Laos. Mon-Khmer people are related to the Khmer people of Cambodia whose mighty Khmer Empire once ruled Laos and the Mon people who have lived in the Thai-Burmese region for centuries and probably thousands of years. The Khmu Rok themselves are believed to have lived in their current area for about the last four hundred years. Before that, their location is uncertain but it is most likely that they have pursued a migratory or semi-migratory lifestyle as long as there have been Khmu Rok people.

Khmu Rok villagers are primarily uplander people. Their villages are mostly in the medium height valleys between the mountains of Laos. They fence their villages and keep family granaries outside the fencing. Most of their agriculture follows the slash-and-burn pattern and they harvest highland wild rice. This is mostly women's work. Rice harvesting is supplemented by hunting and gathering, which is conducted by men to supplement the diet. Other activities include basket weaving, which is very important in providing goods which can be exchanged with other people for necessary items. This is barter trade and occurs with a number of different neighbouring peoples and also includes short-term temporary labour hiring in times of need. This helps show the importance of maintaining good relations with neighbouring villages, because there is occasionally an excess of demand for labour which can only be met by bringing in people from nearby villages. Some people own buffaloes or elephants, which can be used in the logging industry in some areas.

Nevertheless, the Khmu retain something of a reputation for practicing magic, since they have animist beliefs and some families still cast sorcerous spells, while mediums foretell fortunes by going into trances. These activities have almost disappeared these days but the reputation lingers. Nevertheless, reverence is offered to the house spirit (Rroi gang) and people suspected of leaving the house at night to feed themselves on chicken excrement are said to be possessed by the mad spirit (Rroi pong or Rroi suu).

Culture is transmitted to younger generations by the telling of tales around the fire in evenings. Pipes are shared and, in the past, opium smoking was more common than it is now, when tobacco is smoked instead. Some Khmu Rok are heavily tattooed, sometimes across their whole body, for both decorative and sacred reasons.

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