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Sticky Rice

© John Walsh

Rice is the single most important staple food in East Asia. In many countries, a meal served without rice would be almost inconceivable. In the Philippines and parts of China or Malaysia where wheat noodles or vegetables are more common staples, rice is nevertheless still a vital part of the diet. Being non-allergenic and with a high proportion of minerals, rice in one form or another is suitable for almost everyone. In mainland Southeast Asia, the animist belief traditions suggest that rice is not just a convenient plant but a living entity and protector of the people. The spirit of rice is sometimes identified in particular with sticky rice - glutinous rice - in those areas such as Northwestern Vietnam and Laos where it is the most important species.

There are many varieties of rice. Each has its own particular qualities and uses, even if the differences in taste and appearance may be too subtle for the outsider always to appreciate. Archaeological investigations have revealed that rice was being cultivated in Vietnam approximately 3,300 years ago. Subsequently, Chinese and Vietnamese histories have always mentioned the growing of rice and commented on the different uses of the various strains. The first Vietnamese encyclopaedia, Van Dai Loai Ngu (Classified Discourse from the Tower of Clouds), for example, compiled by Le Quy Don in 1773, identified 29 glutinous and 41 non-glutinous varieties. Meanwhile, the Gia Dinh Thanh Thong Chi (The Great Register of Gia Dinh City - a former name for Saigon), by Trinh Hoai Duc (1725-1825), discusses preparation of the red and black Nep Than variety and observes that 'It is not necessary to pound the Nep Than, after threshing, you steam it, then add pork fat, salt and shallot, and you get a very savoury and aromatic dish' (Hien and Lien, 2000).

The cultivation of glutinous rice and its subsequent use in producing rice wine and rice whisky has come to be associated closely with the spread of the Tai peoples. The origins and subsequent migrations of the Tai peoples remain contested issues. However, evidence suggests it is most likely that the Tais originated somewhere in the area of Northwestern Vietnam and Southeastern China and that, from there, they spread as far as Guangzhou and Hainan Island to the once Tai Ahom state based in Assam in India, through to Southern Thailand by way of Burma, Laos and Vietnam. Wherever they may be found, the Tai can be seen maintaining their traditional na (rice paddy field) way of life and, when they live in upland areas, they grow sticky rice.

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