Digging Daffodil Bulbs


© Clay Higgins


Daffodil Gardening 101 continued

DIGGING DAFFODIL BULBS

This is the second of four articles on digging daffodils

First, there are no guarantees that bulbs will survive the digging, regardless of the method used, 1) dry and store, or 2) divide and immediately replant. Second, after digging, and cleaning, proper care will give the bulbs the best survival rates. Expertise built up from education, shared experiences, and lessons learned from personal successes and failures can save the agony of losing daffodil bulbs to basal rot over the summer months. I know, I've lost my share of bulbs.

DIGGING

Gardens Daffodil bulbs need to be dug and thinned to maintain them at a high level of performance. Garden daffodils need to be dug and thinned from every 4 to 6 years, depending on how proliferic the variety is at producing new bulbs. Bulbs start competing with themselves for nutrients, water, and space, and may not bloom. Sometimes, these overcrowded blooms can be "brought back" by fertilizer, and additional watering. However, the only thing you are doing is "buying" time, because the real solution is the thinning, not the forceing them to bloom again.

Show Daffodils In the regiment of growing show quality daffodils, dig daffodil bulbs on a two year rotation for thinning and inspection. When I asked why to a large number of successful growers, the reply was, "because the successful showers dig every two years." When I asked why a two year rotation, the reply was, "it saves on the labor to dig half each year."

When one grows 500 to 900 varieties of daffodils, and puts down seven bulbs each, digging all the bulbs in one year can be very labor intensive. The answer is to divide the task, and dig half each year so that each year's job will be less than the whole. The down side is that you will be doing the "hard labor" of digging each year. If the digging was the only thing that had to be done, the job would be a laugh.

However, digging has to start off with the preparation of bags to hold the bulbs, and the making of labels so that each bag of bulbs will be properly labeled for identification. Of course, after the digging comes the cleaning, fungicide, cleaning, storage, inspection and cleaning, and possibly cleaning again. I'll explain the numerous cleanings as I proceed. It all adds up to a lot of work over a two or three month period.

       

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

16.   Jun 8, 1999 5:46 PM
Carol,

Paper bags to well, as long as they are a true paper bag that "breaths", like the small ones that the old fashion hardware stores package those three 1/2 inch screws that you bought on you l ...


-- posted by Daffyclay


15.   Jun 8, 1999 11:49 AM
This explains why my parents' garage is good for storing them -- it is hot there, but the garage is a shady spot and the doors at both ends are mostly left open during the day so there is plenty of go ...

-- posted by Cottage_Garden


14.   Jun 8, 1999 10:09 AM
Brian,

I second your motion. I usually don't stack them because of the humidity here, however, they survive well.

On another issue that you raised, about losing maybe 5% over the summer. Most ...


-- posted by Daffyclay


13.   Jun 8, 1999 9:45 AM
Just to add my annecdotal evidence to the temperature debate, when I was a daff neophyte (I like to think I have since progressed to amateur status) I moved into a house with several clumps of 'Dutch ...

-- posted by BrianW_5


12.   Jun 8, 1999 6:30 AM
Kate,

Just about anything that will allow air circulation will do. My wife compains that women's hosiery cut off air circulation, but I assume if they have big runs in them, the air should be able ...


-- posted by Daffyclay





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