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Lemons Sweeten any Kitchen

© Lindsay W. McSweeney

We hear so much about the great food items the New World gave to Europe – tomatoes, peppers, corn, chiles, potatoes – that I wanted to give tribute to one of the great kitchen staples that came the other way – the lemon. Originating in Southeast Asia, the lemon was introduced to Europe by the Moors, and subsequently brought to America by Columbus.

Two types of lemons are commonly available today. The sour lemon is the type found at every grocery store, usually in a large heap. These lemons probably won’t have a label specifying variety as there is little distinction among sour lemons – the varieties are interchangeable. The second lemon type, which is becoming more available, is the Meyer lemon, and is usually labeled. Originating in China, this lemon is a cross between an orange and a lemon. It is sweeter, and can, in fact, be eaten whole by those with a high sour tolerance. If a dish calls for fresh, uncooked lemon peel or rind, a Meyer lemon might be preferable. Lemonade made with Meyer lemons will require less sugar.

With both types of lemons, however, you want to select a fruit that feels heavy, and one without any green tinges, soft spots, or blemishes. I prefer as dark a yellow color as possible, as the lemons with paler skin are less ripe and have a higher acid content. If you’re buying lemons primarily for juice, buy lemons with a smooth, glossy surface. If you’re looking for zest (whether regular or candied), choose lemons with a bumpy skin – the skin is thicker. (For instructions on how to candy lemon rind, see the end of the article). Lemons will keep at room temperature for a week, or refrigerated for a month. Bottled lemon juice is a very poor substitute for fresh lemon juice; however, in a pinch, you can buy frozen lemon juice, thaw it, and store in the refrigerator for a month.

There are a couple of tricks to working with lemons, especially if you’re looking to juice them. The best approach is microwave a lemon, on “high”, for 20 seconds before juicing. Alternatively, roll the lemon on a counter with the palm of your hand. If you’re using a hand reamer, allow the juice to dribble through your fingers, thereby catching the seeds. To generate one cup of lemon juice, use 6 large lemons or 8 small lemons.

Culinarily, the lemon has numerous uses besides adding a sour, fruity flavor (most conventionally, to fish and the white meat of chicken). Lemon juice can actually cook food, as is most evident in the Latin American dish of seviche (raw fish which will turn opaque after continuous exposure to lemon juice). Less dramatically, lemon juice will tenderize foods, especially thinly sliced beef.

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