The Gentle Art of Poaching


© Lindsay W. McSweeney

So many cooking techniques are vigorous and forceful – “searing”, “roasting”, “trussing”, “beating”, that it is relaxing to reflect on a gentle cooking technique. “Poaching” refers to cooking food entirely submerged in liquid, the temperature of which is maintained just below the boiling point so that the liquid’s surface is gently quivering. The purpose of poaching is a delicate transfer of flavors to and from the poaching liquid to the food being cooked.

Poaching is a relative of braising, (see the 2/28/02 column) where most often a meat item is cooked by being partially submerged in a simmering braising liquid, which is maintained at the temperature necessary to break down the muscle’s connective tissue. However, poaching is performed in liquid that is both kept below the simmer and entirely covers the food. It is therefore appropriate for foods that are tender by nature. Poaching is especially useful for cooking fruit, eggs, chicken, and fish.

The technique for poaching is simple; (sample recipes for specific foods are included below). First, bring the poaching liquid just to a boil. Add the item to be poached, which will immediately reduce the liquid’s temperature below the boil. In many cases, all you need to do at that point is cover the pot, remove it from the heat, and let the food item cook through in the residual heat. For large items, like whole chickens or whole fish, or harder fruit, heat is applied to maintain the below simmering temperature until the food has finished cooking.

While poaching is not an aggressive cooking style, it can still impart a lot of flavor, primarily through the choice of poaching liquid. Besides water, you can use any combination of stock, wine, fruit juices, sugar syrups, other liquors, whatever is appropriate. To the base liquid, you can add, herbs, spices, or other flavorings. And once you have cooked the primary food item, you are left with a wonderfully flavored broth that can form a soup base or be reduced to make a sauce.

Fruit: To prepare a good, basic poaching liquid for fruit, combine 1 quart water, 1 cup sugar, 1 cinnamon stick, and 2 cloves in a saucepan large enough to contain the fruit. Bring the liquid to a boil and allow it to simmer at least five minutes. Add the fruit, reduce the heat to maintain the liquid below a simmer, and poach until knifepoint tender. Pears are a classic fruit to poach. For pears, 2 cups water and 2 cups red wine, instead of 1 quart water. Either peel the pear entirely or peel only the top half. Clean out the seeds and core from the blossom end (the fat end) using a melon baller or small spoon. Stuff the resultant holes with honeyed nuts and cream cheese. Put the pear, standing upright, in enough boiling liquid to cover entirely, and immediately reduce the heat so the liquid’s surface shimmers. Cook until tender, (usually 20-30 minutes). Allow the pears to cool in the liquid. The liquid, which is now flavored sugar syrup, can be reduced after the fruit has been removed to make an excellent sauce for the pears or ice cream topping.

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