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Braising Warms the Winter Soul


© Lindsay W. McSweeney

With the snow falling outside, it is almost axiomatic to think of filling the house with warm cooking aromas. In savory cooking, no other technique accomplishes this as well as braising. Braising is usually associated with pot roasts, but the technique is much more versatile than this one dish and once you understand the technique, it is easy to be creative with different ingredient combinations.

Braising is classically defined as cooking a food item with a small amount of liquid in a closed vessel. Braising usually involves pieces of food that are portion sized or larger; a close relative to braising is stewing which cooks smaller food pieces in more liquid. First we’ll look at the appropriate food items to use for braises, then discuss the technique. I’ll finish with a demonstration recipe, the great Italian dish Ossobuco.

Braising is most often associated with meat, especially less tender cuts. Tougher cuts of meat come from the animal parts which get the most exercise, i.e. shoulder, legs, rump. These cuts have a large amount of connective tissue, (“gristle”), which is composed of the protein collagen; older animals also have proportionally more collagen than younger animals. Over a long cooking period at relatively low heat, collagen dissolves and converts to gelatin. The meat becomes tender and develops a smooth, unctuous mouth feel. However, tougher cuts also have a lot of muscle fibers, which dry out over long cooking periods. Therefore, braising requires liquid to keep the food moist. In looking for appropriate cuts of meat to use for braising, look for terms like “chuck”, “shank”, “brisket”, “tail”, “rump”, or “round”.

Braising, however, does not need to be confined to meat. Large, older fowls like whole capons, roasters and turkeys braise beautifully. Large poultry pieces can work, but limit your choice to the dark meat, (again the section of the bird that has the most muscle and does the most work). This is a great technique to use on packaged turkey drumsticks or thighs. Also, fibrous vegetables work very well in a braise. Examples include celery, fennel, leeks, endive, radicchio, and celeriac.

Technique: The braising method is fairly standard; the creativity comes in the choice of liquid and seasoning:

1) Choose a thick sided cooking vessel that can be used on both a burner and in the oven, has a tight fitting lid, and will hold your food items snugly in a single layer. Dutch ovens, Creuset pots, and cast iron pots are all excellent choices.

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