Frodo's Favorite: A Mushroom Primer
In honor of one of my all time favorite books and now movies – “The Lord of the Rings” - I thought I’d discuss the hobbits’ favorite food – mushrooms. “Mushroom” in a culinary sense, basically means edible fungi. A large variety of mushrooms are now available in stores and, given the extravagant prices some carry, it is worthwhile to become better acquainted. In her excellent reference book, "Vegetables From Amaranth to Zucchini", Elizabeth Schneider lists 25 culinary mushrooms, many of which go by several names. A survey of two quality food stores (Bread and Circus in Boston, and Draeger’s near San Francisco) showed the following are often available (listed alphabetically).
White/Button/Cremini/Champignon/Portobellos: Historically, in the U.S., mushrooms always meant the white or button mushroom, (called “champignons” on menus). Cremini mushrooms, which are also marketed as baby bella, golden Italian, Roman, or classic brown, are the brown variety of the same species. White and brown button mushrooms should be similarly priced, and are interchangeable in recipes. The brown or creminis do have a slightly richer flavor. Portobellos are simply large cremini mushrooms. These are excellent all-purpose mushrooms, but if you don’t have a specific recipe for these mushrooms, try one of two techniques. Brush them with seasoned olive oil and then roast or grill. Alternatively, slowly sauté them in olive oil, covered, until all of the liquid is absorbed. The larger ones, especially the portobellos also make excellent bases for stuffing or for pizza.
Chanterelles/Black trumpets, Golden, Horn of Plenty, Yellow-Footed: These mushrooms look like lilies, and are also an excellent all-purpose mushroom, but have a more delicate flavor than the cremini family. Use these with lighter dishes, (chicken, fish) and use the gentle sauté approach. These are also one of the few mushrooms which can be eaten raw.
Chicken of the Woods: This mushroom looks like an open sponge, with multiple branches gathered at a base. The flavor is somewhat akin to chicken, and is appropriate for vegetarian dishes where you want to intensify the flavor. The tips can be sautéed, but the base is tougher and needs to be simmered in liquid.
Enotitake/Enoki/Winter Mushrooms: These look like a cluster of long branches topped with balls. The most delicate and mild of the commonly available mushrooms, enotitakes are excellent raw i.e. as a salad garnish. Substitute enotitakes where you might use bean sprouts.
Honshimeji/Beech/Clam Shell: Use as a substitute for creminis, and handle them the same way, although these are milder and require less cooking time.
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