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Stuffing vs. Dressing

© Lindsay W. McSweeney

History is full of great disputes - the conquests of the Roman Empire, the Napoleanic Wars, and the debate whether to stuff the Thanksgiving turkey or cook the stuffing on the side, (thereby renaming it "dressing"). For many years I was a die-hard stuffer but I've finally been converted to dressing.

Stuffing proponents insist that the only way to get the inimitable flavor from the internal turkey droppings is to stuff. They claim further that stuffing ensures a properly moist dish and that it conserves valuable oven space. Dressing proponents, however, argue that it is impossible to cook stuffing to a safe temperature (165 degrees F) without overcooking the turkey. This not only harms the bird, but adds precious time to the roasting process.

For several years, I attempted to compromise. I would wait until my stuffed turkey was cooked, transfer the stuffing from the turkey to a casserole dish and finish cooking it in the oven. There were two problems. The meal is not wholly safe as some stuffing inevitably remains in the turkey. I was also adding one more cooking step to an already packed cooking day.

So, with the help of some experts,(see Cook's Illustrated & Alton Brown), I decided to really give dressing a try. In the process, I learned that dressing can taste great and is also a palette for culinary creativity.

I will first confess to a short cut. I start with Pepperidge Farm's herb seasoned stuffing. Purists insist that you need to make your own bread, or at least buy French bread to make the bread cubes or crumbs. But Pepperidge Farm offers dried bread that meets most requirements and they have figured out how to blend the herbs perfectly through the crumbs. If you want to enhance a particular herb you can add a little additional. This shortcut saves the cook a lot of work.

There are only two real adjustments needed to convert stuffing to dressing. Listed on the back of your bag of stuffing is the required amount of fat (usually butter) and liquid you should use. First, increase the amount of liquid called for. If the proportions call for one cup of liquid, plan on two. The additional liquid doesn't have to be chicken stock or water, see below for other suggestions.

Now you need to compensate for the missing turkey drippings. Add the maximum fat the bag requires - one stick of butter for the 16-ounce bag. Additionally, add three beaten eggs. These steps will produce a tasty dressing by themselves, but there are some additional options. I add the turkey drippings not used for the gravy. Bacon fat can add a lot of flavor. Sausage adds richness, whether or not you add the rendered fat.

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