This is a difficult book to review, not because of the recipes, but because of the personality. Or, more accurately, the personality clash. Christopher Kimball, author of The Cook's Bible, and editor of Cook's Illustrated is, quite simply, annoying. To me, anyway. But that doesn't mean his recipes aren't good, because they are, and they're very well-researched (to the occasional point of agony, I might add). However, his insistence on improving recipes already published (presumably with his approval) in Cook's Illustrated is a little difficult to take, as his consummate arrogance in the superiority of his own taste. Now, I'll readily admit that it would be difficult to have his job without some self-assurance, but good grief...everything not perfected by him is simply wrong, according to his lights. But I'll tell you--for my money, pudding that tastes of cornstarch is not a winner; you'd be better off with a box mix.
Okay, enough of the kvetching, on to what's to like, which is plenty. Charts accompany many recipes, showing you potential pitfalls of other cookbook authors, or unintentionally giving you advice as to where to turn if you do like your blondies extra sweet and gooey, for instance. When the charts concentrate on the effect of a single ingredient, the result is much more impressive and helpful. For drop sugar cookies, Kimball outlines the pros and cons of baking powder v. soda, sugar v. corn syrup, size, and the effect of chilling dough. Great information, and gives you a guide to how to create a cookie that pleases you and your family.
The Chocolate Sour Cream Frosting is a winner, with a pleasant bite highlighting the chocolate's sweetness. The Pumpkin Pie is straightforward and likely to please the stodgiest of uncles. The Baked Peaches with Bourbon and Brown Sugar is an absolute pleasure in its simple coziness. For a somewhat more festive occasion, try the Chocolate Mousse--fairly simple if you're folding and timing skills are good, and always elegant. The Zabaglione I found a tad too eggy for my taste, and think it may have been improved with a touch of cream to mellow things out.
The Best Chocolate Chip Cookies aren't however. And why--because this one food that is completely idiosyncratic. They are good chocolate chip cookies, as are most of the recipes I've tried. But only the individual cook can determine what the subjective 'best' is for their family.
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