In November of 1986, Ben and Karen Barker, who had fallen in love while taking classes at the Culinary Institute of America, opened the Magnolia Grill in Durham, North Carolina, and put their distinctive stamp on Southern cuisine. Not constricted by a need to be strict traditionalists, they looked at the bounty of produce and seafood available, and included these homey ingredients in their version of down-home haute cuisine.
This cookbook features some of the best loved dishes available at the restaurant; Summersweet Corn Bisque with Shiitake Mushrooms, Bacon and Truffle Oil; Shrimp Chiles Rellenos with Chipotle-Tomato Vinaigrette and Avocado Salsa; Rabbit Confit with Marinated Baby Artichokes, Newly Dug Potatoes, and Spring Vegetables; Ginger-Lime Crème Caramels with Tropical Ambrosia.
Lovely photographs of the food, the restaurants, the cooks, and the waitstaff are sprinkled throughout the book, combining to create a very pretty photo essay. (It's interesting that the Magnolia Grill itself is so very plain that one would be tempted to drive on by, unless given a tip by someone who had been pleasantly surprised at the offerings available at the white-wash brick building.)
The instructions for each dish are very thorough, and each step is numbered, a welcome bit of aid when preparing some of these sometimes complicated dishes.
TRIAL BY FIRE
I have to admit that I tried some of the simpler dishes in this book, strongly believing that the simpler the dish, the more the quality of the ingredients come through.
BLACKBERRY VODKA TONICS This was a great way to use up some extra berries I had on hand, and a partial bottle of vodka that had taken up permanent residence in my freezer. I cut the recipe down a bit to fit what I had, and was pleased by the result. A blackberry infused vodka that made the most of the ingredients, creating a whole that was definitely greater than its parts.
NEW ORLEANS RED BEAN SOUP WITH ANDOUILLE AND RICE
Flavorful, easy to prepare, with a spice level that can be easily adjusted. The smoked turkey (not turkey sausage, just turkey) that they suggest topping the dish with was a somewhat incongruous note that I think is better replaced with the more traditional smoked (pork) sausage. But that's just me.
GABRIEL'S FAVORITE CRISPY PARMESAN CHICKEN WITH LEMON AND CAPERS
This dish is named for their son, who early on announced an affinity for capers-rather precocious child, obviously. And one of the few dishes that has no clear Southern influence-to my taste, more Italian in nature. A deceptively simple combination of breaded boneless chicken breasts, parsley, Parmesan, lemon, and butter. Light and crisp, goes wonderfully with a side of pasta.
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