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From Biba's Italian Kitchen, by Biba Caggiano

© Kimberly Skopitz

For me, Italian food is synonymous with comfort food. What could be better than a big bowl of buttery pasta covered in red sauce to chase the blues away? Plenty, according to Biba Caggiano, author of six Italian cookbooks, and owner/chef of Biba's in Sacramento. (She used to have a show on The Learning Channel, until they decided to cut all of their cooking shows.)

Ms. Caggiano encourages the reader to try his or her hand at making fresh pasta, and provides gloriously clear instructions on how to do so. Indeed, it is the clarity of instruction in this volume that makes it indispensable to those wanting to recreate authentic Italian dishes in their kitchen. Instructions are broken down into logical steps, and appropriate substitutions are suggested, when reasonable. (For instance, substituting orange roughy for monkfish, or chicken for rabbit.) Additionally, Biba maintains the chattily instructional style of an aunt-little side notes scattered throughout the book provide cooking hints with a wink.

My only quibbles are minor. The pages can sometimes be difficult to read, due to maroon print on a cream paper. A combination that can get a little tiring, especially when working with a recipe for a long time. And, as with most cookbooks, there is never an indication on correct pronunciation, which would be pleasant indeed to encounter.

The Trial by Fire:

Onion Focaccia (Focaccia Con Cipolle)

Terrific! The onions were as sweet and creamy as she promised, and the dough headily flavorful. We ate it as a main course, but it would make wonderful party food, cut into small squares. For those that really want a pizza, an addition of tomatoes and mozzarella would work nicely. It is easy to overcook, though, so make sure you check often as it bakes-you want the dough to stay soft throughout, no crispiness.

Biba's Vegetable Soup (Il Mio Minestrone)

A simple, filling dish that readily adapts itself to the best seasonal vegetables, whether winter or summer. The asparagus and young zucchini give this soup a wonderful lightness in the summer.

Homemade Pasta

Her master recipe is just that-simple and complete, creating a soft but not too-delicate pasta that is flavorful on its own. Biba provides instructions for combining the ingredients by hand (best), food processor (easiest), and blender. Follow them carefully, and you'll be a convert to the necessity of fresh pasta.

Want to know more about Biba?

Her Restaurant http://www.biba-restaurant.com See what's on the menu, how to get a signed cookbook, or try a recipe (they change monthly).