Nights at the Winter Circus

In the heart of Paris, at 110, rue Amelot is one of the most revered circus sites in the world.

Cirque d’Hiver, which means the Winter Circus, was built in 1852, when it was called the Cirque Napoleon. The central feature is a ring, around which the magnificent old building stands as a monument to a grander age.

It came under the ownership of France’s famed Bouglione Circus family in 1934, when it became Cirque D’Hiver, the circus winter quarters.

To step inside Cirque d”Hiver is to enter history. Built to hold almost 6000 spectators, it is reminiscent of the old Roman circuses. Behind the scenes is a warren of dressings rooms and animal stalls.

The old circus joke was that even the cockroaches were trained to perform at Cirque d’Hiver, but in fact it has become of the most elegant venues in Paris, hosting a variety of events from fashion shows to rock concerts.

But its greatest attraction is still the circus. The current production Piste (which means ring) is a glamorous Cirque du Soleil type production.

In 1956, Cirque d’Hiver was featured in the Hollywwod film Trapeze, with actor Thomas Lopez portraying Sampion (Papa) Bouglione.

In 1961, my parents and I toured with Circo Americano which featured acts from the Bouglione Circus, including wire dancer Gypsy Bouglione. Her skill and beauty had everyone on the circus mesmerized.

Later that year, we went to Cirque d’Hiver itself. The building was in need of an upgrade at that time and everyone was complaining about the damp and the cold.

But the atmosphere was incredible. This was the place that had inspired artists such as Toulouse-Lautrec and Degas. The world’s greatest performers had appeared there. No circus fan’s visit to Paris would be complete without a night at the Cirque d’Hiver.

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