CANADA'S QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS
On a tiny island south of Alaska’s panhandle and ninety miles off the shore of British Columbia, a battery of weathered and decaying totem poles stare out to sea. These poles once declared the status of the powerful Haida Nation. Grizzly bears, eagles and killer whales, once magnificent specimens of the Haida’s talents are rotting and falling. It seems they are disintegrating back into the earth to join the people who carved them in such vivid detail.
An abandoned, windswept village in one of Canada’s newest national parks is even more special. Ninstints, as the long deserted village is called, has the most totem poles on the Pacific coast that still stand on their original site. It has been declared a World Heritage Site. It is an important legacy to the history and culture of not only Canada, but mankind as well.
Here, the decaying totem poles of the Haida people regain their dignity. These totems are not props or souvenirs that are peddled to tourists. They are a tangible link to the past – a time when there were no borders or boundaries, except those between the different tribes of Native people.
Other Indian ruins can be found in Gwaii Haanas, another park. Translated, Gwaii Haanas means “Island of Wonders” and the totems are indeed a wonder – magnificent specimens of bygone days.
The government of Canada is seeking to preserve these islands. The area is abundant with sea, animal and plant life. The area, recently declared a national park consists of 363,000 acres. The Canadian Government plans to extend protection to the waters surrounding the area, making it the largest contiguous marine conservation area in the world. The government is also regulating the number of visitors to the park. Only 175 people are allowed to enter daily. Approximately 3,500 visit every year.
The park is made up of 138 islands. Boaters and Kayakers flock to its crystal clear waters. Since there are no roads, people that don’t come by sea must come by air. Hundreds of visitors come to the islands drawn by the totems. Others come, seeking a wilderness experience.
The Queen Charlotte Islands are beautiful specimens of nature, but at times gale force winds sweep across them without warning. Mist and fog often settle over the islands like a soft veil, giving them a forbidden, mystical appearance. Then, the rains come, lifting the veil of fog so the sunlight can fall over the thick, lush rain forest. Evergreen trees within this Pacific rain forest stretch into the sky. Some are as tall as 150 feet. The moss that covers their gnarled roots is so thick that when you walk upon it, it’s like walking on lush, green carpet.
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