A New Twist in Wine Closures

Of course, it had to be Randall Grahm to kick off a new generation of quality wines with screw caps. No ordinary screw caps, however. These are classy ones, full of artsy cuteness which matches his cheeky labels.

What's to be said of these new screw top closures? Well, once you get over the notion that you're turning into an upscale wino, they are extremely convenient. Their almost hand-painted appearance helps to ease the pain. And the lack of a protruding stopper allows the wines to reside comfortably in the refrigerator door without needing to adjust the height of the shelves.

So far the new Stelvin™ closures (screw cap) adorn Bonny Doon's two prison inspired wines, Big House Red and Big House White. Undoubtedly the virus will spread to Bonny Doon's more pricey wines and other wineries will surely follow suit. And what of the contents of these unsettling bottles? Read on.

2001 Cá del Solo Big House White California; 13% alc., $10
Successor to Bonny Doon's "Il Pescatore." A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia Bianca. Alluring, delicate, soft and complex nose much more akin to Pinot Grigio than Sauvignon Blanc, with lovely melon and almond accents. Gentle and round on the palate, with good acidity and moderately long, slightly off dry finish. Despite the long list of varietal components and the cutesy generic name, Bonny Doon's Big House White is a quality wine that would grace a wide range of seafoods, lighter pastas and Asian dishes. Recommended.

2001 Cá del Solo Big House Red California; 13.5% alc., $10
Deeply colored and aromatic enough to be detected across the table when vigorously swirled, this wine isa curious admixture of no less than 13 French and Italian varietals. A bright and peppery nose leads to a rich compote of fruit flavors with the contributions of Barbera and Grenache clearly in evidence. Unlike many other red blends intended as accompaniments to informal foods such as burgers and pizza, Bonny Doon's 2001 Big House Red is a wine of richness, depth and complexity - and with just enough soft tannins to remind you that you're drinking real red wine. A terrific and unusual blend. Highly recommended, screw cap notwithstanding.

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