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A Tasting of Central Coast Wines

© Alan Boehmer

The story of California Central Coast wine reflects the inexorable march of enology and viticulture towards excellence.

There was a time not long ago when wine lovers associated various varietals with specific locations or "terroirs," a practice we learned more from the French than from the Italians who pioneered winemaking in California.

We looked to Napa Valley for good California Cabernet Sauvignon. Zinfandel found its most agreeable home in Sonoma County, as did Pinot Noir. Paso Robles was best known for dry farmed Zinfandel and Chardonnay vineyards were carpeting much of Santa Barbara County.

Matters of terroir will always play a fundamental role in vineyard designated bottlings of the highest quality. But the advances in enology and viticulture we've seen over the past decade have made it possible to produce rainbows of wonderful wines in locations throughout much of California. Our tasting panel focussed on current releases from the Central Coast region, focussing on San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara County.

No longer the dominant province of Zinfandel (San Luis Obispo) and Chardonnay (Santa Barbara), we found a full spectrum of excellent wines, including the best rosé any of us had ever tasted. We've followed many of these wines for years and we're happy to report that they just keep getting better and better. Here are some highlights:

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY

2001 Victor Hugo Syrah Rosé Paso Robles; 13.6% alc., $13.99
Light, floral nose. Balanced, delicious, juicy flavors with a note of almond. A gentle and stylish wine. Highly recommended.

2000 Talley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Arroyo Grande Valley Estate Bottled; 14.5% alc., $15
Excellent nose, full flavors, long and bright finish. Floral and citrus flavors. A serious wine with considerable body. Recommended.

2000 Alban Vineyards Viognier Edna Valley Alban Estate Vineyard; 14.5% alc., $26
Excellent, deeply fragrant nose suggestive of Bing cherries and pepper. Splendid flavors, good texture and lovely finish. One of California's finest Viogniers from a winemaker who pioneered the varietal. Very highly recommended.

1998 Domaine Alfred Chardonnay Edna Valley Chamisal Vineyards' 14% alc., $21
Excellent nose, full spicy flavor, long finish. An excellent example of quality Central Coast Chardonnay and a good value. Recommended.

1999 Piedra Creek Winery Zinfandel Paso Robles Benito Dusi Vineyard; 14.2% alc., $24
An excellent example of Paso Robles Westside Zinfandel from one of the region's most distinguished vineyards. Excellent, fragrant nose of Bing cherries and black pepper with a slight burnt note that is characteristic of Paso Robles Zinfandels. Splendid flavors, good texture, lovely finish. Highly recommended.

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