Vitis vinifera sylvestris originated in the mountains of Turkey, Armenia and Iran, and was apparently the only show in town in the Mediterranean region during the days of early exploration, so it seems probable that the cuttings brought by the Phoceans from southern Greece to France's Rhône Valley around 600 B.C. were of this wild, natural variety. Whatever variety it was, these early Greek explorers chose to plant it on what we now call the Hill of Hermitage. Tradition suggests that this may have been the first planting of vinifera grapes anywhere in western Europe. From this ancient planting, enology scholars suggest, sprang all the noble varietals of western Europe: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, and so on.
The success of the plantings at Hermitage are legendary. Even today, this vineyard produces some of France's finest red wine, made from what we now call the Syrah grape. The name Syrah is very likely a corruption of Shiraz, a city in south central Iran from which the original grapes may have come. Natural occurrences of vitis vinifera sylvestris may be found in the region surrounding Shiraz to this day.
In 1994 Spanish winemakers convened to request legislation that would protect the few remaining plantings of vitis vinifera sylvestris on Spanish soil, those descended from the days of early European exploration. Tests confirmed that the vines had not genetically mutated. The Spanish wine industry hopes to preserve these vines for purposes of research.
Since all winegrapes grown in California are of European ancestry, we, too, are the beneficiaries of that early importation of vitis vinifera sylvestris to the Rhône valley. And when you enjoy your next sip of luscious California Syrah, remember that you may be tasting the most direct relative to the wines of antiquity.