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Telling White Wines Apart


© Alan Boehmer

How easily can you identify the wine in your glass if you don't already know what it is? Most beer drinkers probably believe that they could pick out their favorite in a blind tasting of beers, hands down. Indeed, there are still more than a few who would rather fight than switch. Yet, in a blind tasting of a dozen popular beers I once conducted for a group of twelve tasters, not one person correctly identified his own favorite.

My first blind tasting occured around age 12. I was stunned to discover that most of my preadolescent buddies were unable to distinguish Coca-cola from 7-Up when blindfolded. The root beer, however, didn't fool any of us. Some flavors are just easier to pick out.

And so it is with wine. Some wines are impossible to mistake, even in blind tastings: Sherry, for example. Others are difficult. Even wine professionals sometimes have trouble. The famous wine writer and importer Frank Schoonmaker once admitted feeling relief when the results of a blind tasting confirmed that he had not mistaken a red Bordeaux for a red Burgundy.

With access to tens of thousands of professional tasting reports available online, it's never been easier to find those characteristics which distinguish one wine varietal from another; but it does require a bit of effort. Here's one example:

These are the words used by a popular wine magazine to describe hundreds of foreign and domestic Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. (Words used repeatedly appear in boldface type.)

SAUVIGNON BLANC

citrus
clean
crisp
flinty
floral
grapefruit
grass>
green apple
hay/straw
herbal
lemon
light body
melon
mineral
pear
smoke
spice

CHARDONNAY

apricot
butterscotch
citrus
creamy
creme brulee
earth
exotic fruit
fig
floral
full bodied
honey
melon
peach
pear
pineapple
rich
ripe apple
round
smoke
spice
steely
vanilla
yeast

A careful reading of these descriptors shows that both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay share some common characteristics: citrus, floral, melon, pear, smoke, and spice. But there are a few words which are used repeatedly to describe one of these wines, but never the other.

SAUVIGNON BLANC - defining characteristics

clean
crisp
grapefruit
grass
green apple
hay/straw

When you find these characteristics in a white wine, it is very likely that you are drinking a Sauvignon Blanc, not a Chardonnay. Further, the more dominant these characteristics are in the wine, the more "varietal character" the wine is showing.

CHARDONNAY - defining characteristics

creamy
creme brulee
exotic fruit
full bodied
ripe apple
vanilla

Chardonnays are typically full-bodied, creamy wines, characterized by tropical or exotic fruit, ripe apple, and vanilla (which is a product of storage in new, small oak casks).

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The copyright of the article Telling White Wines Apart in California Wine is owned by . Permission to republish Telling White Wines Apart in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

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