The decade of 1975-1985 catapulted California wineries into the fray. The race to wine excellence was on and France finally enjoyed some competition. Today California's most prestigious Cabernet Sauvignons are outpricing many of Bordeaux's best and many wine lovers look to California as the leader of a worldwide wine industry.
But is California losing its grip on domestic and international markets? Just as California provided strong competition for French wines over the past several decades, other New World viticultural regions are giving California wines a strong run for their money in today's market.
We see several noteworthy trends. First, we are seeing an increasingly sharp market focus across the entire price/quality spectrum. Wineries are targeting their potential customers, whether they be devotees of cult status wines or merely the price conscious. And what's even more interesting is the effort of various regions to attempt to establish a varietal style that defies imitation: Australian Shiraz, South African Pinotage, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, California Zinfandel.
Nowhere has the California wine industry been harder hit than in the under $10 category. More than 90% of all the wine sold in the U.S. falls into this category and it is here where California finds its toughest competition. With the high costs of viticultural real estate and high wages, California is hard pressed to meet foreign competion. Yet in a few cases, it manages to do just that. Here are our February picks in this category:
EXCELLENT AND INEXPENSIVE WINES
2000 Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc Vintner's Reserve California; 13.5% alc., $10
Attractive, light straw color; crystal clear. Very good nose of melon, honey and ripe gooseberry. Roundness is achieved by an infusion of 10% Semillon and delicious layered flavors result from small additions of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Muscat Canelli. Largely tank fermented to preserve fresh fruit flavors, but blended with 10% barrel fermented wine for depth and complexity. A delicious and polished Sauvignon at a price everyone can afford. Recommended.
NV Pesenti Red Velvet Red Table Wine California; $5.99
A stylistic throwback to former days when soft fruitiness and drinkability took precedence over structure and complexity in California red wine. This wine is eminently drinkable and mouth filling with almost no sense of tannin and retiring acids. It would make a splendid base for sangria or other red wine punches. At its low price point, we highly recommend it. Available only in California.
