California Chenin Blanc

Second Article in a Series

The good news is that California Chenin Blanc isn't what it used to be. The bad news is that hardly any California wineries are making it.

With Chardonnay as the white wine of choice for general consumption, Chenin Blanc has almost slipped off the scale. It's rarely found in supermarkets and even upscale wine merchants are reluctant to keep it on the shelves, since it's a slow mover.

Why has the American wine drinking public turned its back on what was once the largest selling white wine in California? We suspect that it might have something to do with the persistence of memory. Yesterday's California Chenin Blancs were monodimensional and often a little flabby - just not very interesting, when compared to even low end Chardonnays.

This article reports on the current state of California Chenin Blanc. Each wine was evaluated by our panel of thirteen tasters. You may be surprised to learn that California Chenin Blanc has improved by leaps and bounds, even over the span of the past decade. Why this is so is still somewhat uncertain. But if you love clean drinking, bright, complex, attractive white wines, you can select any of the wines below for a taste treat that may wean you off the Chardonnay for everyday enjoyment.

2000 Ventana Dry Chenin Blanc Monterey Barrel Fermented; 13.5% alc., $12
Crisp, fresh, fragrant, easy drinking wine with aromas and flavors of melon, apple, and dried jasmine flowers. Excellent balance. Deftly barrel fermented in French oak for a touch of roundness. A superior California Chenin Blanc. Highly recommended. And at its suggested retail price, an EDITOR'S PICK.

2000 Meador Estate Dry Chenin Blanc Monterey Arroyo Seco Old Vine Barrel Fermented; 13% alc., $18
Made by Ventana's Doug Meador from low yield, old vines and selectively hand picked. Barrel fermented in older Seguin Moreau barrels to preserve the freshness of the fruit flavors, while adding a touch of complexity and depth. Lovely, deep nose and flavors of papaya and melon with mineral notes. Attractive bitter almond on the finish. Highly recommended.

2000 Husch Chenin Blanc Mendocino Estate Bottled 12.5% alc., $12
Good nose, good balance, fruity and smooth. A honied California Chenin Blanc with roundness and a pleasant sweetness made in the demi-sec style. Enjoy it alone or with light dessert courses. Delicious. Recommended.

1998 Heller Estate (Durney) Chenin Blanc Carmel Valley Estate Bottled Organically Grown; 11% alc., $15
Unusual, organic chemical aromas suggest ketones. Very light on the palate, offering subtle flavors of unripe nectarine and grapefruit.

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