Chenin Blanc - California's Awkward Child

Part One in a Series

It started out as everyone's favorite white varietal, back in the 60s. Chardonnay (it was incorrectly called Pinot Chardonnay then) was considered a luxury wine, and to make matters worse, California winemakers hadn't yet learned how to maximize its potential. Chenin Blanc was inexpensive, pleasantly sweet, and readily available.

California Chenin Blanc all but disappeared with the White Zinfandel craze of the 80s and the rise of inexpensive, quality Chardonnay in the 90s. But some winemakers are refusing to let it go. Why? First of all, because the Chenin Blanc grape produces some of the most delicious off-dry and sweet wines in the world when grown in its native soil, the Loire Valley of France.

Mindful of the long struggle to achieve high quality wines from Pinot Noir, a handful of California wineries are continuing their quest to produce great wines from Chenin Blanc.

THE OLD WORLD MODELS
The Loire River is the longest in France and is home to three distinct growing regions. Only the middle portion of the Loire Valley is devoted to Chenin Blanc, the region surrounding the city of Tours.

A special complication of the Chenin Blanc grape is the fact that it is a late-ripening variety and can only achieve optimum ripeness in this marginal region when late summer and early autumn weather permits.

Except for the Layon Valley, a southern tributary of the Loire, winemakers aim to produce semi-sweet wines called demi-sec. In poor vintage years, when the grapes do not properly ripen, dry or sparkling wines are made. When the grapes achieve full ripeness, sweet wines ensue.

Some of the world's most distinguished dessert wines are made from Chenin Blanc grown on the hillside vineyards of the Layon Valley, most notably the two Grand Crus, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume, whose wines can rival Premiere Cru Sauternes.

Most Chenin Blancs found in the U. S. carry appellations of Vouvray or Montlouis. Our panel tasted wines from Foreau, Huet, and Baumard. They were priced in the $20-30 range and all were outstanding. These are wines of grace and substance. The presence of residual sugar in a wine requires an appropriate acid balance and fuller complement of complex flavors. The sweeter the wine, the more important these factors become, unless you're planning to pour it over pancakes.

Lighter styled wines are eminently easier to produce and more in line with traditional American tastes. But this is not where Chenin Blanc shines. It's varietal character is masked without residual sugar. It begins to show its stuff in wines of moderate sweetness and moderate body. And it achieves greatness in the splendid Quarts de Chaumes of producers such as Baumard.

Go To Page: 1 2

Articles in this Topic    Discussions in this Topic