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California Chardonnay vs. White Burgundy

© Alan Boehmer

It took California vintners about a half century to learn how to produce Cabernet Sauvignon competitive with the world's best. Zinfandel was easier, partly because no models existed, and partly because the varietal is so agreeably grown and vinted here. Nevertheless, it wasn't until the 1980s that the voluptuous, but not overly tannic, Zins that so many of us have come to love began to appear. Pinot Noir took us most of the 20th century to fathom.

There are still some hard nuts that continue our best efforts to crack, most notably some of the principal Italian varietals. Among whites, California Riesling and Gewürztraminer lag far behind their German and French models. And no California Sauvignon Blanc shows well compared to the best white Bordeaux.

But how goes it with white Burgundy these days? We placed two California Chardonnays into a blind tasting of a cross section of current white Burgundies to see whether they might be construed as French. The results were both predictable and surprising. Here are our conclusions:

1998 Verget Bourgogne Blanc, $17
This lovely regional white Burgundy was one of the surprises of the event. Warm, round, seductive and complex aroma of grapefruit, green apple, and butterscotch. Plenty of stuffing, yet clean drinking, disciplined and dry on the finish. Outstanding value.

1999 Laurent Tribut Chablis "Côte de Léchet" Premiere Cru, $30

Beautiful, complex wine with typical mineral aspects, along with almond, citrus, wet hay and earthy flavors. Bright, palate cleansing finish. A wine of considerable character. Highly recommended.

1998 Verget (J-M Guffens) Santenay Blanc, $23

Mineral and chemical nose quickly dissipates, revealing a simple wine characterized by citrus, melted butter and a hint of butterscotch. Flavors fade, leaving a dry finish.

1999 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve, $19
Bold and buttery, this wine fooled no one. Nevertheless, our panel loved it. Effulgent bouquet and enticing tropical flavors in an exotic, fruit driven wine with a surprisingly delightful, long, gingery finish. A superior example of California style Chardonnay. A good value and recommended.

1999 Thevenet St. Veran Vignes Vielles "Clos de L'Ermitage," $22

Deep flavors of lemon, anise, and spice. Very good texture. Richly flavored, but bright on the palate. A terrific white Burgundy at its price point. Highly recommended.

1999 Carillon Puligny-Montrachet, $50

Delicate, feminine wine. Flowery nose leads to complex, layered flavors of lemon, orange blossoms, dried apricot and spice. Short finish.

1999 La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast, $20
Most of our tasters mistook this wine for French, but one commented, "This could be the product of a California winemaker who really has his act together." This spectacular Chardonnay is an obvious step in the direction of white Burgundy: restrained, disciplined, clean, open, and exquisitely balanced. Intense layered flavors of exotic fruits, flowers, vanilla, and pineapple. A lemony note keeps it from cloying. A stylish wine. Highly recommended.

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