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California Invests in South America - White Wine Reviews

© Alan Boehmer

It will be no surprise to hear that the cost of land in California, even agricultural land, is very expensive and that prices continue to rise. Napa Valley, home to some of the State's most expensive vineyard acreage, is full. In Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties public disquietude is growing over the transformation of the region's rolling oak-studded hills into sprawling vineyards. With a growing international appetite for wine, California wineries are looking for less expensive vineyard land capable of sustaining a quality crop. The answer has been found in South America.

South America has long been seen as an inexhaustible source of inexpensive, decent wines. Few Americans have tasted any South American wine priced above $10. Big changes, however, are on the horizon, thanks to heavy international investment, particularly from France and California.

Our recent review of South American wines produced in conjunction with California wineries was full of surprises. The economy end of the spectrum held its own, providing solid wines at bargain prices. But it was the other end of the price spectrum that revealed the best bargains. We found that the finest examples from Chile and Argentina, priced $25-50, compared favorably to California wines costing roughly twice as much. We suspect that California know-how, coupled with lower production costs, plays a significant role here.

SOUTH AMERICAN WINES REVIEWED

WHITES

SAUVIGNON BLANC

1999 Carmen Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Valee de Casablanca 13.5% alc., $11.99
Recipient of "Best of Nation" award in the 1999 San Francisco International Wine Competition, Chile's Viña Carmen is an excellent source of economical wines. This Sauvignon, from Chile's top white wine region, Casablanca Valley, will not disappoint. Unlike typical high end California Sauvignons which lean often exhibit Chardonnay-like characteristics, Carmen's lovely Sauvignon features crisp citrus flavors tinged with almond and mint. It finishes beautifully with a very slight sweetness. Recommended.

CHARDONNAY

1999 Tapiz Chardonnay Mendoza 13.5% alc.,$8
Light straw in color with straightforward Chardonnay flavors, full body, full malolactic, low apparent acids. Slight suggestion of bergamot, as in Earl Grey tea.

1998 Santa Rita Medalla Real Special Reserve Chardonnay Casablanca Valley; 13.5% alc., $13.99
Another splendid wine from Chile's Casablanca Valley. Light straw in color, bright, clean varietal flavors. Refreshing nose of tropical fruits, lemony orange and pineapple. Complex wine with excellent acids and a long finish. Highly recommended.

1999 Catena Chardonnay Agrelo Vineyards Mendoza; 13.5% alc., $17.99
Medium straw color, perfumed nose of sweet oak promises more than the wine delivers. Thins out in mid-palate, but ends with a bright lemony finish. Recommended.

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