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Page 2
WINES IN DECLINE. After the wine has reached its peak, the secondary flavor spectrum begins to slowly fade and the wine is gradually overtaken by the flavors of age: earthiness, mustiness and dust. The bright acids which promoted the aging process soften and the wine becomes flabby. Tannins progress from early astringency through velvety textures to silky textures, and finally fall away.
COLOR AND AGE. The color of white wine typically deepens, especially if the wine has come into contact with even minuscule amounts of oxygen, such as may have passed through the cork. Corks which are wet and soft always suggest a wine which has undergone some degree of oxidation. Heavily oxidized white wines take on a brownish gold color and are said to be "maderized" (after Madiera). While oxidation is always to be avoided (except in the case of sherries and Madieras), it does not always spell ruination, particularly in the case of sweet white wines such as Sauternes and Barsac. The color of red wine moves from bluish-purple through ruby to garnet, brick red and orange. The color of a red wine is often an indicator of age. Very old red wines will show a clear edge, as the pigmentation begins to separate out of solution. This is best observed by holding the wine glass at an angle. Wines which display this characteristic are not necessarily flawed, just old. Oxidized red wines will take on a brownish color. WHICH WINES BENEFIT FROM CELLARING?Studies have shown that more than 95 percent of all table wine is consumed within two weeks of puchase. Realizing this, winemakers (especially in the U.S.) strive to produce wines which are satisfying upon release and do not require cellaring. In their attempts to meet these market demands, many wineries fall a little short of their highest ideals. Most winemakers will confess that they would prefer to hold some of their red wines back another year or so, but cannot do it because it would drive up the price and make their products less competitive. Most U.S. red wine and Chardonnay will benefit from a year's cellaring. Wines which are made in an ageworthy style will be somewhat more expensive, since they are designed for wine lovers and collectors. These wines are expected to be cellared, either for the short term or the long term. Wines designed to be cellared are of two types: 1) Those which need up to five years for all the component parts to "come together"and 2) Wines which are capable of transformation. These wines will taste completely different after long term cellaring.
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