California grape growers must have thought they were really on to something when they planted more Zinfandel than any other red wine grape way back in the 19th century, most of it ending up as a base wine for generic blends such as California Burgundy, Mountain Red, and others. But after a brief courtship with varietal Zinfandel in the 1970s, West Coast wine drinkers decided they didn't like Zinfandel much. Since more acreage had been planted to Zinfandel than to any other red varietal - and interest in generic wines waned - prices for Zinfandel fruit fell dramatically and the wine... well, it blushed.
Red Zin is back, all dressed up and with plenty of suitors. So many, in fact, that the price of a good Zin now compares with many Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons. Wine lovers are discovering anew the potential of this fine varietal and the wines are better than ever.
Unlike Cabernet and Pinot Noir, for which there are European prototypes, Zinfandel has none at all. Its origins are still murky and uncertain, although DNA tests conducted at the Institute for the Study of Adriatic Wines in Croatia have shown that California Zinfandel is "genetically and morphologically identical" to an obscure old Croatian grape called Mali Plavac.
The Italian origin of Zinfandel has been debunked with recent evidence that there isn't a single Zinfandel vineyard in all of Italy (where it's known as Primitivo) that predates the oldest California vineyards, such as Saucelito Canyon, in San Luis Obispo County, planted 137 years ago!
The lack of European models has led to a spectrum of styles. At the light end, there's a Beaujolais-style Zin made by Harmony Cellars called Zinjolais ($8), a perfect picnic wine. Other winemakers try for the kind of elegance and balance one expects in high-end Cabernet Sauvignon or red Bordeaux. The result is a medium-bodied wine in the claret style, 12.5-13.8% alcohol, and characterized by balance, elegance, and bright, supple flavors. The Zinfandels from Dry Creek, Sonoma County, often fall into this category. At the heavy-duty end, we find wines of enormous strength and concentration. Renwood Grandpere Vineyard Zinfandel 1995 ($25) weighs in at a whopping 15.7%. Norman Zinfandels often top 14% and have, on occasion, sported suggestive subtitles such as The Monster. Eberle Sauret Vineyard Zinfandel 1995 ($18) is a splendid example of a rich Zinfandel with explosive fruit and thick texture. The Wine Spectator liked it very much and gave it a rating of 90/100 points.
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