White Bordeaux has always been considered a connoisseur's wine. Inexpensive offerings are almost always thin, simple and somewhat austere, giving their constituent varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, a questionable reputation.
On the high end, white Bordeaux can be spectacular, but their average cost of around $40+ places them outside the reach of many American wine lovers.
It's probably safe to admit that no American Sauvignon Blanc begins to approach the style, elegance, and complexity of fine white Bordeaux - yet. At the time of this writing, California wineries are still casting about for a consensus on style. Some California Sauvignons are fresh and clean, others oakey; some are grassy and herbal, while others eschew the herbs and go for the fruit; some are very dry, others made with a sweetish edge. Consequently, there is no California style Sauvignon. We're still all over the map.
Our panel tasted representative examples from various regions in the State and compared them with international offerings and, of course, the real thing from France.
CALIFORNIA APPELLATION SAUVIGNONS
1999 Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc California; 13.5% alc., $10
A delicious Sauvignon, displaying aromas and flavors of pineapple, exotic fruit and citrus. Well balanced and attractive. Enough brightness to match well with many foods, yet delicious to enjoy by itself. Although primarily tank fermented, a touch of small French and American oak adds a note of roundness. Recommended.
2000 Camelot Sauvignon Blanc California; 13.5% alc., $8.99
Attractive, pale straw color suggests a clean, refreshing wine. Fruity and floral, rather than herbal. Moderately light flavors, but balanced and long lasting on the palate. Stylistically, this wine aims for the middle - not too grassy, not at all oakey (the roundness comes from Semillon). A slight impression of sweet fruit will make this wine appealing to a wide range of wine lovers. At it's price point, an especially good value. Recommended.
NEW WORLD SAUVIGNONS
We tasted two examples of inexpensive Sauvignons from South Africa and New Zealand to see how inexpensive California examples stacked up.
1999 Cape Indaba Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape; $5.99
Crisp, herbal, light, tank fermented Sauvignon. Earthy flavors. Not a bad buy at $5.99, but lacking in polish, balance, and varietal character.
1999 Corbans Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough; $6.99
A stylish Sauvignon, clean and bright, with pleasant notes of herbs and grapefruit. Not as polished as the more expensive New Zealand bottlings, but a terrific value at its price point. If your taste runs to the herbal side of Sauvignon, you will be hard pressed to find a better example in the under $10 category. Recommended.
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