Cross-Varietal Blends — Reviews
Important California wine trends of the 1980s included the rise of Pinot Noir, and white Zinfandel. In the 1990s we began a serious exploration of the potential of Merlot, we perfected Chardonnay, and introduced the New World to the charms of Rhône Varietals. Our current enchantment with Italian varietals is in full swing at this time. What's next?
It appears that two important new wrinkles are beginning to unfold in this first decade of the new millennium. The first is the rise of Cabernet Franc on the Central Coast (it brings the highest price per ton of fruit, next to Pinot Noir); the second is a new and exciting foray into cross-varietal blends.
Cross-varietal blends, as we noted in the previous two articles, are blends consisting of substantial percentages of different, often unrelated, varietals. By using cross-varietal blending a winemaker hopes to achieve something different - a proposition the market always smiles upon, at least for a time.
The wines reviewed below represent some of the latest efforts at cross varietal blending in California and are compared with established Australian versions.
BLENDED WHITES
2000 Rosemount Estate Chardonnay-Semillon Australia; 13% alc.; $5.99
A fairly lean and simple Chardonnay base (55%) is fleshed out with a substantial dose of Semillon. A pleasant and quaffable wine at an affordable price.
1999 Caymus Conundrum (Various Appellations); $23.99.
This exquisite wine is the result of an uncommon collaboration of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier, and Muscat. It is a winemaker's triumph and a top contender for finest blended white wine in California. Excellent nose and light gold color; slightly sweet on the palate, but bright flavor components quickly temper the impression of sweetness. A beautifully textured wine layered with flavors of tropical fruits, pineapple, and sweet spice. Highly recommended.
1999 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier California; 12% alc.; $11.79
Chenin Blanc has always been a difficult child in California, using the great examples of the Loire Valley in France as a model. We've not succeeded with Vouvray styled wines (sweet); and our dry Chenin Blancs have lacked complexity and interest. Pine Ridge has abandoned traditional models for this varietal and has embarked on a course which may put Chenin Blanc back on California dinner tables. Typical California Chenin Blanc is pleasant, simple, and a touch sweet. What is needed here is a judicious dose of an opposite flavor profile: aromatic, complex, and dry. The answer Pine Ridge offers is this blend of 86% Chenin Blanc and 14% Viognier. Bravo! It's the best thing that's ever happened to California Chenin Blanc. Highly Recommended.
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