Oregon vs. California — Reviews
We commented in our previous article that clear characteristics are found which distinguish Oregon wines from California. Our tasters focussed on three especially competitive varietals and we threw in one "mystery wine" for the panel to identify.
PINOT GRIS
Having recenly conducted a tasting of California Pinot Grigios, we chose one which typified the California style and tasted it against as superlative Oregon Pinot Gris. Here are our findings:
1999 Benessere Pinot Grigio Napa Valley; $20
This is the first Pinot Grigio release from Benessere, a distinguished producer of Italian styled wines in Napa Valley. We found this wine very typical of the California style. Warm peach and apricot aromas and flavors. A flowery beginning turns to melon on the palate. Round, full, and well balanced. A superior example of California Pinot Grigio. Highly recommended.
1999 Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Gris Willamette Valley; $16
Clear, clean, mineral and herb aromas and flavors. Deeply flavored, long finish. Strikingly Alsatian in style. Tank fermented. Our tasters loved this wine for its clean, refreshing style. Outstanding Pinot Gris. Highly Recommended.
CHARDONNAY
Our tasters were privileged to compare two outstanding Chardonnays, both of which were a cut above expectations. The California style of Chardonnay is well known: fat, juicy, oaky and sweet. At least, that is the style which seems to pervade the mid-range examples. The lesser ones are often lean and monodimensional. The great California Chardonnays are complex and much cleaner drinking, but somewhat expensive. Both of the examples below will demonstrate something of the varietal potential of this great winegrape.
1998 Westrey Chardonnay Reserve Willamette Valley; $20
Tasted first, we expected this wine to typify Oregon Chardonnay at its best and provide a clear distinction from the California example. Good nose of sweet apples, spice, minerals and vanilla led to a thrilling experience on the palate. Very clean for a New World Chardonnay, and disciplined. Wonderful balance and long, satisfying finish. An excellent food wine and a superior Chardonnay which is well worth its price.
1998 La Crema Chardonnay Cold Coast Vineyards Sonoma Coast; $20
In our blind tasting, this wine and the example were not easily distinguished as Oregon vs. California. The La Crema Chardonnay comes from California's coldest viticultural region - Sonoma Coast, and shares many characteristics with more northerly regions. This is a wine of great style. Complex and balanced, with great finesse. Rich flavors, but lean texture. Far more satisfying than the more opulent Chardonnays of California's warmer regions. A superior Chardonnay. Good Value for a wine of this quality. Very highly recommended.
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