Part 4 in a series
If you peruse any listing of top rated Tuscan red wines, you may be in for a surprise. The listing will probably not be dominated by traditional wines such as Chianti, Vino Nobile, or Brunello. To be sure, there will be some examples of these traditional Italian wines; but the high end of the listing will probably be dominated by wines with names like Solaia, Tignanello, Sassicaia, Solengo, Ornellaia, and Tassinaia. These are examples of what are commonly called Super Tuscans. They are usually Sangiovese blends, most often partnered with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. An increasing number of Super Tuscans are blended with Syrah, and occasionally we will find a 100% Sangiovese example bearing a proprietary name because it falls short of government regulations for an appellation name, despite being a superb wine.If you've been following our series of articles on Sangiovese, you have probably noted that very few Sangioveses are released, either in Chianti or in California, that have not been helped along by a little judicious blending. But when the blending varietals comprise more than 25% of the blend, the wine must carry a proprietary name (in the U.S.). When substantial amounts of blending varietals are used, it is a winemaker's hope to create a more complete, better balanced, richer and more interesting wine than the base varietal can yield on its own.
In California, as in Italy, we find an occasional 100% Sangiovese which achieves near perfection on its own without assistance from blending varietals. Felsina's Fontalloro (Italy) and Atlas Peak Reserve and Showket Sangioveses (California) come to mind.
The California Super Tuscan blends offer everything one could hope for in a dry red dinner wine. They combine the roundness, softness and raspberry/cherry fruit of Sangiovese and the depth, complexity, and enhanced tannins of the blending varietals. They're not called Super Tuscans, of course; but their names are often a giveaway. Here are three which our panel particularly enjoyed:
1998 Cosentino "Il Chiaretto" Sangiovese California; 13.5% alcohol, $18.
Very pretty in the glass, this lovely wine sports an attractive nose of dried cherry, raspberry, and spice which turns plummy on the palate. Good acid, but not excessively bright. A balanced wine with just enough tannin to provide structure and texture. A delicious Sangiovese blend that should appeal to everyone. Highly recommended.
1996 Pietra Santa Sassolino California; 13.4% alcohol, $16.
Floral, strong, deep nose of raspberry, violets, and cinnamon. A substantial and polished Sangiovese blend from a winery that specializes in Italian style wines. A terrific wine; the best $16 California Sangiovese blend we found. Highly recommended.
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