California Sangiovese — Reviews
Part 3 in a Series
THE ITALIAN MODEL1997 Giorgio Primo Chianti Classico DOCG 14% $29.99
This was clearly the wine to beat in our review of nearly 30 California Sangioveses. A superb example of Chianti Classico, it showed a richness, brightness, depth and texture not often found in California Sangioveses. Gorgeous nose of violets, dried cherry and anise leads to an attractive sweet fruitiness on the palate, but leaves with a dry, softly tannic finish. Outstanding wine.
We found no California example which bore direct comparison to the above example. Not to say they are all inferior - they're just not quite the same. A few actually outperformed the Chianti Classico in the opinions of our tasters.
If the bad news is that only a handful of California Sangioveses approaches the high standards of Tuscany's best Chianti Classicos, the good news is the rest are not that far behind. Sangiovese is still a boutique wine in California, with a narrow, but gradually expanding audience. Those who make it have not yet been caught up in the kind of high volume production techniques that have given us $6 Cabs, Merlots, and Chardonnays; California Sangiovese is still very much a winemaker's wine.
One thing brought into clear relief by this tasting was the search for style. It was not difficult to tell which winemakers were applying the techniques commonly used in Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon production to this less familiar varietal. But a group of winemakers seems to be emerging that has come to terms with the uniqueness of Sangiovese; their wines more closely resemble each other.
Certain vineyard locations - such as the east side of Napa Valley - seem to produce Sangiovese fruit which needs little or no help from blending varietals; but most current California Sangioveses are blends.
CALIFORNIA SANGIOVESES WE THINK YOU WILL ENJOY; Listed in ascending order.
Pedroncelli 1997 Single Vineyard Selection Sangiovese, Dry Creek Valley; 13.5% alcohol; $14.
Very dark ruby, heavily extracted. Shy nose suggests deeper flavors of dried currants, leather, minerals, licorice and stewed fruit. Very full on the palate for a Sangiovese.
Orfila 1997 Sangiovese "Di Collina," San Pasqual Valley; 13.3% alcohol; $20
Here is a Sangiovese that will appeal to Zinfandel lovers. Deep ruby color, highly concentrated. Warm, plummy nose leads to rich, sweet-edged flavors of red fruits and vanilla. A substantial wine, best paired with roasted and grilled meats.
1998 Cá del Solo Sangiovese California; 13.4% alcohol; $17.
Deep ruby color. Nose of peppery raspberries and red fruits. Very bright and lively aspect on the palate which some might find austere. Soft tannins on the finish. Italianate in style, which means to say that this wine is most attractive when enjoyed as a complement to food. Made from the Sangiovetto clone and blended with a "substantial percentage" of Syrah. This wine will be very much at home with typical south Italian dishes based on tomatoes and garlic.
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